In just a few years, it has become an essential reference in the design of the boutiques of major luxury brands. Portrait of this fanciful dandy boss, himself a designer, who injects colors, original shapes and new concepts into distribution for Dior, Cartier, Greenkiss and la Samaritaine in these creations.
At the crossroads of art and commerce, aesthetics and transactional, Malherbe Design is – in the jargon – international leader in commercial design with 400,000 square meters of projects per year. Very barbaric words to define an agency of about 140 people, a large beehive made up for the majority of creatives (architects, designers, graphic designers …) which continues to expand its field of action from its three offices in Paris, Shanghai, Hong Kong and soon in New York. With Hubert de Malherbe at its head, a sparkling 55-year-old young man who campaigns for fantasy and daring in a sector that is assessed mainly in figures and linear footage. But behind the mischievous dandy who grew up in an aristo-bohemian family, “broke” he specifies and keen on the arts, make no mistake… before drawing for Rihanna (the Fenty boutiques) or La Samaritaine (opening scheduled for April), this passionate and hard worker has cut his teeth in the “mass market”, that of large retail outlets where performance is learned per square meter. The common point ? The taste for form and a form – always – of intuition on which the creative has trusted for 20 years, with the sole objective: to succeed. Meeting in his Parisian offices, the former studio of architect Charles Garnier.
Désirée de Lamarzelle: What is your definition of luxury?
Hubert de Malherbe: It is cultural, it is a way of thinking transmitted to me by the people who raised me. A form of fantasy that coexists with a taste for beautiful things. Luxury and design are also inseparable for me because it corresponds to a way of doing things … it is form, intention, rather than function.
A store is a turnover, isn’t it complex in the design?
H. de M.: Yes, designing a store is very complex, because on the one hand you have the numbers, that is to say you know what is selling and on the other hand the intuition, the audacity. mostly. You have to reconcile the two. But if we take a good look at all the “drivers” in commerce today, these are often companies that have shown daring. Take Ikea: the concept of getting people to travel to buy furniture that they will assemble themselves was as daring as it was brilliant!
What is your background as a designer?
H. de M.: I come from a very “artist” family who made me aware of painting and music, but “broke”. This pushed me to succeed with a form of determination… After studying engineering, I created my agency 20 years ago, which today brings together 140 employees. Anyway, working freelance was not an option. I hate working alone.
140 employees is also a big responsibility? Even more in times of health crisis?
H. de M.: I don’t see it that way. It is even rather reassuring to be numerous. During the confinement we all worked a lot, the weekend included, and even if we had to reassure a few customers, no contract was canceled or shortened. Regarding the crisis, it should be noted that the projects on which we are working are very upstream and are carried out over the “very long term”, so the impact of a crisis that we hope is occasional is low.
How do you become the king of the “mall”?
H. de M.: We go through a lot of stages, first you are the merchandising baron – to resume your lexical field – then the marquis of the store concept! This experience, which is acquired over time, allows us to know what works and what does not. Besides, when a shop opens I know immediately if it will work, the figures speak immediately. There is no esteem success in store design! I just want it to succeed. My beginnings in mass distribution taught me a lot, especially performance per square meter.
What are the keys to success in store design?
H. de M.: Boldness as we have mentioned, and the lessons of previous good or bad experiences (failures can be very instructive) are the keys to our success. A very nice boutique that “wows you” does not mean that it will sell, even if everyone is talking about it. We know that depending on the facade, location, lighting, interior circulation or even its name, the success of the store will depend. Some need traffic, others have to be in the background because they are destination brands, we have to have all of this in mind. It’s our job.
What is the balance between creativity and sales constraints?
H. de M.: We don’t compromise, because the store is the first sales vehicle for the company that entrusts it to us. This should not be the occasion for a style exercise to boost the agency’s ego, but that does not prevent intuition and daring in our projects. You have to know how to stand out. Take a look at Louis Vuitton lately, which bet on “cultural houses” rather than the classic flagship. The brand listened to his intuition.
A design agency must be agile like any business?
H. de M.: Each project is different, the strength of the agency is the casting. Making the right choice of collaborators on projects and, as far as I am concerned, knowing how to withdraw. Some have been there for fifteen years, not only do we work together in total confidence but we have gained conviction on the projects. Isolation and narcissism are recurrent faults among creatives, this is avoided in an agency.
What are your next developments?
H. de M.: The opening of our office in New York initially scheduled for last March but canceled due to the covid-19 crisis. It is very important for our establishment in the USA because we are very present internationally: we work in India, China, Africa and throughout Europe.
And the digital transformation of the agency?
H. de M.: As long as e-commerce was confidential and above all very technical, there was no added value, now that digital is starting to have a very important place in sales and especially more visual, we have a real role to play. Historically, physical and digital commerce are worlds that turn their backs with different people who manage their business differently while having the same goal: to sell. We have a vision of reconciliation so that these two worlds can work together.
How to reconcile these two worlds?
H. de M.: I didn’t think the reflexes of physical commerce would apply so easily to online commerce. For 20 years the technique in e-commerce has progressed, and has made it possible to considerably improve the purchase. Delivery platform, connected catalog … For example in some luxury brands, sellers advise you online, ignoring jet lag or geolocation, it is a step forward for everyone.
Is it the end of physical commerce? We fear that the crisis will cause many closures …
H. de M.: If there are closures I think it will readjust, other people will come… trade abhors a vacuum. When New York experienced – two years ago – a business crisis with entire streets that lowered the curtain, the Americans had no qualms where the French generally try to hold out. the arms of the “business models” that do not work well. This is also why crises come faster and resolve themselves much faster there. Since entire streets have been converted into DNVB (Digitally Native Vertical Brands).
Who are these DNVBs?
H. de M.: Brands born in digital, such as the “Slip Français”, which started their business in e-commerce around a community. They go beyond the divide between physical and online businesses, by building their business vertically: they eliminate intermediaries and integrate everything! To open their shop rue des Abesses in Paris, they asked their community to find their name (“Abesses ton slip”). Nice demonstration of marketing!
Do you have limits?
H. de M.: Yes, the question is flattering, but I have millions of limits and at the same time I tell myself that anything is possible.
Customer experience is she an essential stake in store design?
H. de M.: All trades are changing and in particular in luxury, but I find that we are speculating a little too much on this notion of experience. I prefer to find the soul of the place by letting certain details that belong to the history of the brand express themselves. Luxury is in the detail. Next to my house there is a tiny florist who always has the right flowers and at the right price… his shop is called “Préliminaire”, it’s poetry!
Where do you find your inspiration?
H. de M.: I go to concerts, I take pictures, I take notes on lots of stuff: a detail, a simple shape inspires me … as La Fontaine would say “the occasion, the soft grass, and I think, -some devil me pushing… ”.
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