The decor, a symbol
As the grand ball of the fashion shows organized over 4 weeks in New York, London, Milan, then Paris opens, a question burns the lips of all those who, in person or behind their screen, do not miss a single one of the shows offered. by the brands: which designer will do the show?
For the past few seasons, the Covid19 pandemic has necessarily spoiled the party a bit by forcing designers to postpone their shows. Another factor: certain polemics agitated the public and diverted the attention of the collections, which was in particular the case of the cut trees planted by Chanel in the Grand Palais. Thus, for the sake of supporting all those involved in creation, but also to avoid any bad buzz, designers in New York have followed in the footsteps of what Dior was initiating earlier with its Haute Couture show and seem to have chosen sobriety or in any case a rather intellectual framework for their collection presentation.
Scheduled on February 11, the first day of Fashion Week, the show of the Proenza Schouler label – a duo formed by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the two darling children of US fashion (fashion popess Anna Wintour adores them!) -, s is held at the Brant Foundation Art Study Center in the East Village. An arty setting echoed by an experimental soundtrack against a cello backdrop. Sober, and necessarily legitimate…
Proenza Shouler Fashion Show
Art, the consensual choice
Helmut Lang – Another central figure of this Fashion Week – had chosen an art gallery in the Soho district as a backdrop. As for Ulla Johnson, her choice fell on the prestigious setting of the New York Public Library enhanced by the presence of wooden sculptures by the artist Alma Allen. In an uncertain climate, at a time when the sector is trying by all means to rebuild its reputation, it seems in good taste, when one wants to give oneself new credibility, to ride the arty wave. We know that today, companies must show their credentials and not just by recycling a few fabrics, this interest in social responsibility has become at least as important as the talent of the house stylist. So, of course, the creators did not wait for the presentation of the winter 2022 collections to discover the existence of art galleries (and we know for example the relationship between Yves Saint Laurent and the artists of his time), but what now seems certain is that we are far from provocations, chic porn or excesses of all kinds: brands no longer necessarily want to get out of nails at all costs, because they are looking for first to guarantee an irreproachable reputation. The proof with Thom Browne who will not parade until next April. Reason given: to model its timing on that of the launch of the major exhibition on American fashion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET). Quite a symbol.
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