Finally a woman – that was the tenor of the fashion world when it was announced that the British Sarah Burton new head designer of the French luxury brand Givenchy becomes.
There had already been many reshuffles in the fashion world – however, in recent years almost only men have been allowed to ascend to the fashion Olympus and put their stamp on the most famous fashion houses.
Saturday By Sarno at Gucci, Daniel Lee works for Burberry, Matthew Blazy for Bottega Veneta, Pieter Mulier will be Alaïa celebrated, Alexander Michael tries to Valentino. Only Chloe voted with Chemena Kamali a woman as the new creative mastermind.
Like many other observers, the New York Times some time ago: “Why is an industry that is primarily aimed at and funded by women still primarily run by men?”
Burton goes to Paris
More elegant than its predecessor
The criticism also made it clear that Givenchy under pressure and after a year of searching has now Burton The 50-year-old will be following the very youthful and dark collections of her predecessor Matthew Williams probably provide more elegance and softness.
After all, the Englishwoman is responsible for the legendary wedding dress of Princess Kate Catherine also likes to rely on the British brand for other occasions.
For almost 30 years, Burton was with Alexander McQueen in 2007, 13 of them as head of design before she left the brand in 2023. Burton’s last collections were no longer considered particularly relevant and contemporary, the Street Style she never wanted to commit to.
A fact that could benefit her in the future, as the overly casual styles are now increasingly being replaced by graceful dresses.
Burton’s collections at McQueen:
Ackermann and his star friends
More popularity in the fashion world is currently Haider AckermannThe designer, born in Colombia, will also be the new creative head of a luxury brand. He will lead the company Tom Ford with his fashion back on the list of the most sought-after labels.
Ford himself is an Ackermann fan: “He is an incredible expert when it comes to color. His cuts are so precise and he is extremely modern. I think I will be the first person to stand up and applaud after his show in March.”
Ackermann’s last official collection 2020:
This will probably also include Ackermann’s countless celebrity friends such as Kate Moss, Zendaya, Instagram queen Kylie Jenner or screen favorite Timothée Chalamet This almost guarantees his (financial) success.
Success through media flood
In addition to celebrated designs, the network of a head designer has now become an essential part of a successful career. Paid ambassadors, famous muses and VIP buddies of the fashion designers spread the new clothes in the media world better than any fashion show – and arouse desire among customers.
The listed companies that are behind almost every fashion house also know this and are primarily concerned with one thing: money.
Share prices of luxury brands have fallen
At least with Dry (Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent) things are not looking particularly rosy at the moment. The conglomerate has achieved 20 percent less sales in Asia, and its share price has recently plummeted. But fashion competitors such as LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Dior) have seen better times due to inflation and the China crisis.
Now Ackermann is supposed to take over at Tom Ford and become owner Estee Lauder a better price again. Whether Burton can catapult the struggling Givenchy house back to bright heights will be even more exciting.
