Ever heard of Gost, Global Organic Textile Standard? It is an international voluntary standard for the processing of organic fibers that is based on a rigorous set of ecological, social and human rights certification criteria along the entire textile chain. Operated by the non-profit Global Standard (www.global-standard.org) based in Stuttgart, Germany, but with offices around the world, it was established in 2002 by four organizations: the German International Association of Natural Textiles , the American Organic Trade Association, the British Soil Association and the Japanese Japan Organic Cotton Association. «Any organic textile product can potentially obtain Gost certification. They range from yarns to clothing, household products, mattresses, personal hygiene products and fabrics intended for contact with food. But textile fiber components of consumer products such as car seats or furniture with fabric coverings can also include Gost certified textile materials.
Demand for safer hygiene products, such as menstrual pads and tampons, has also grown significantly,” says Katie Lee, public relations specialist at Global Standard. «Since the foundation of our brand in 2002, the attention and demand for organic fabrics has continued to grow – continues Lee – and consumers are increasingly aware that everything they buy has an impact on the environment. Organic fabrics are now produced all over the world and we can count on around 15,000 Gost certified companies, of which more than 700 are in Italy.”
Lee, since this is a voluntary certification, what are the parameters that companies must meet to obtain it?
To obtain certification, companies must meet a series of environmental and social criteria. These include: a ban on the use of toxic or harmful chemicals, such as heavy metals, formaldehyde and genetically modified organisms (GMOs); the obligation to have waste water treatment plans; compliance with key social criteria based on International Labor Organization conventions, such as fair wages, absence of child labor, safe working conditions and the right to collective bargaining; quality standards, such as color fastness and shrinkage values, to ensure that certified textile products meet customer expectations. Greenwashing and fraud in the textile industry remain sadly current problems and the Global Standard works to ensure that GOST sustainability claims are robust and credible, maintaining transparency and traceability.
Who checks that the entire production process is really like this?
The certification and inspections of transformers, producers and traders are carried out by independent certification bodies, specially accredited by us. These certification bodies are also entrusted with inspections and assessments. Of course, Global Standard has developed its own accreditation system for the approval of certification bodies.
What standards must the organic cultivation of the plants from which the fibers are obtained follow?
The production of organic fibers does not directly fall within the Gost certification system. However, all fibers entering our system must be certified to the Ifoam (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements) standard, which has its own officially approved organic accreditation system that includes both private and government regulations. Certified “organic” or “organic in conversion” fibers such as cotton, wool, silk and other natural fibers are permitted.
An important point of the certification, as you have already mentioned, is respect for the rights of workers in the sector.
We are very strict on this point. Gost certified producers, manufacturers and retailers are required to comply with rigorous social criteria which include the free choice of workers, freedom of association and collective bargaining, the prohibition of child labour, discrimination, harassment and violence and the obligation of equal treatment of migrant workers. Additionally, workplace health and safety measures must be in place and hours must comply with national laws or industry standards, whichever is more protective for workers. Additionally, certified entities must develop a plan to cover the wage gap and pay their workers a living wage.
How is it possible to come into contact with certified companies?
You can find certified products in most countries around the world. Consumers can visit www.behindtheseams.eco to learn more about products, brands and where to find them.
