Vietnam Restaurant in Philadelphia’s Chinatown has recently been recognized as an America’s Classic by the prestigious James Beard Foundation. This honor is bestowed upon locally owned restaurants that not only serve quality food but also embody timeless appeal and reflect the character of their communities. The restaurant, which was founded in 1984 by immigrants who arrived in Philadelphia with only $30, will receive the award at the Beard Awards ceremony in June.
The story behind Vietnam Restaurant is as remarkable as the recognition itself. The founders, Thuyen Luu and Nhu Lai, arrived in Philadelphia five years prior to opening the restaurant. Their journey to success is a testament to the resilience and determination of immigrants. The Lai family’s sandal factory in South Vietnam was confiscated by the communists after the fall of Saigon. Fleeing from communist rule in China, they found themselves in a “re-education camp” before eventually escaping to a refugee camp in Malaysia. Their journey continued as they embarked on a treacherous sea voyage, finally arriving in West Philadelphia in 1979.
Life in Philadelphia was not easy for the Lai family. They settled in a cramped two-bedroom apartment, where they lived in bunk beds and survived on a meager diet of chicken legs, rice, and broccoli for over two years. Nhu Lai managed to find work as a janitor to support his family. Through their perseverance and frugality, the family saved enough money to open a grocery store called Fu-Wah in 1982. Two years later, they scraped together another $10,000 to take over a turnkey restaurant and opened Vietnam on 11th Street.
Benny Lai, the son of Thuyen Luu and Nhu Lai, took over the businesses in 1989 as his parents retired. Under his leadership, Vietnam Restaurant underwent expansion and renovation, including the addition of a lounge on the building’s third floor. The Lai family also opened a second restaurant, Vietnam Cafe, near Fu-Wah. Today, Benny’s mother, wife, and sons continue to lend a helping hand when needed. Sadly, Benny’s father passed away 11 years ago, leaving behind a legacy of hard work and determination.
Vietnam Restaurant now joins the ranks of other local America’s Classics destinations, such as Corinne’s Place in Camden, White House Sub Shop and Chef Vola in Atlantic City, and John’s Roast Pork in South Philadelphia. The James Beard Foundation commended Vietnam for being a beloved date-night spot that offers classic Vietnamese cuisine. The Lai family was recognized as pioneers among the first wave of Vietnamese refugees who came to Philadelphia, building a life through hard work and entrepreneurship while delighting their customers with lemongrass-scented feasts. The restaurant’s menu boasts a variety of dishes, from barbecue platters filled with grilled meats and crispy spring rolls to fragrant noodle soups and sizzling clay pots of caramelized pork. Vietnam Restaurant has remained a consistent and beloved culinary institution throughout the years.
The recognition of Vietnam Restaurant as an America’s Classic by the James Beard Foundation is not only a celebration of the restaurant’s impact on Philadelphia’s culinary scene but also a testament to the incredible journey of the Lai family. Their story is a reminder that hard work, determination, and a passion for food can create something truly extraordinary. As we celebrate this well-deserved recognition, let us also appreciate the rich tapestry of immigrant stories that have shaped our communities and enriched our dining experiences.