Last week’s news in the bouldering world was the first ascent of Shaolin 9A by Sean Bailey. At that time, the American did not give too many details about the new problem, although the rumors spread quickly among fans of the extreme block.
With this video, Sean Bailey reveals the details of the process that led to a very elaborate chain that required maximum effort and commitment, both physical and especially mental. The line is located to the right of Trieste 8B+ and presents a very marked step in the middle that concentrates its main difficulty.
The 14-minute production can be seen on the Mellow Climbing channel and has garnered excellent comments from YouTube users. It bears the signature of the Catalan Jordi Llaurado. In the footage you can also see Shawn Raboutou testing the problem, which had been a project for more than four years and had resisted the attempts of such renowned specialists as Drew Ruana, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods and Shawn Raboutou himself.
Guest 1: Sean Bailey, Professional Boulderer and First Ascender of “Shaolin” 9A
Web Editor: Congratulations on your triumphant ascent of “Shaolin” 9A. Can you tell me more about the process leading up to this incredible feat and what it took for you mentally and physically?
Sean Bailey: Thank you, it’s been quite an adventure. It all started in 2016 when I first discovered the problem. I fell in love with the line immediately, but it took me over a year to even attempt it due to its sheer difficulty. The first time I tried it, I didn’t even come close. However, I knew that this problem was special and that I wanted to make it mine. I spent countless hours training and practicing both mentally and physically, learning the intricacies of the move and finding ways to make it work for me. As you mentioned in the article, the chain required maximum effort and commitment, which is something I didn’t take lightly. Eventually, after multiple attempts over several years, I was able to send it and make history.
Web Editor: What was it like to have such experienced climbers like Drew Ruana, Jimmy Webb, and Daniel Woods struggle with the problem before you succeeded? Did you feel any added pressure or inspiration during your attempt?
Sean Bailey: At first, it was definitely daunting knowing that such accomplished climbers had tried and failed to send “Shaolin.” But ultimately, I tried to focus on my own climbing and merely use their experiences as motivation. I knew that if they couldn’t do it, it didn’t mean that I couldn’t give it a shot. What inspired me was the pure love of the sport and the challenge itself. Climbing is about pushing personal limits and discovering what one is truly capable of, so I used their attempts as inspiration to keep going rather than as a source of intimidation.
Web Editor: Can you describe the move that proved to be the most challenging and what you did to ultimately conquer it?
Sean Bailey: The most challenging part of the problem for me was the step-up sequence in the middle. It required precise foot placement, perfect body tension, and a powerful reach.
