After the last two dry and hot years, 2024 was the exact opposite, well almost… While temperatures remained normal, precipitation was close to records. When, like this year, the rain creates a fertile breeding ground for mildew and when it waters the winegrowers and their grapes during the harvest, precipitation quickly becomes the enemy of the producers.
However, while the harvest has just taken up residence in the cellar, it is time for relief. This difficult year and these “magnificently complicated harvests” – to use the words of one winemaker – are now behind us. The efforts and know-how of the winegrowers paid off, since they nevertheless managed to bring in quality grapes. “The 100 days after flowering represent the determining period for the quality of the grapes,” explains François Montet, president of the Fédération Vigneronne Vaudoise (FVV). “The heavy rains arrived after this period, the quality was good. » Indeed, according to data from the Pully meteorological station, summer precipitation remained close to or even below the norm of the last thirty years. “It hasn’t rained as much as in 2021, despite what it feels like for most people this summer. We are all biased because we focus on weekends and holidays and forget about the other days. The majority of the Chasselas harvested was over 70 degrees Oechslé, which is the minimum standard for inclusion in the Grands Crus. We recorded some nice surveys on Pinot Noirs, which don’t like heat. » Will this vintage be a gem for the many fans of the Burgundian grape variety? The future and the few months in the cellar will tell.
Unsurprisingly, the quantity of grapes received does not reach the 2022 and 2023 harvests. “According to our forecasts, we could be generally below the quotas,” confirms François Montet. Rest assured! There will still be something for everyone! According to forecasts, the number of bottles produced in 2024 will correspond to market demand. It must also be said that in the cellars, we expected worse in terms of quantity.
A story of water
But let’s return to the beginnings of a story close to the seven plagues of Egypt… Even if the year had started well, in spring, a late frost hit hard on yields, mainly in Chablais, but without sparing certain plots in the rest of the Vaud vineyards. As in much of Europe, pressure from fungal diseases was felt, especially in May. “We have controlled the attacks,” reassures François Montet. The 2021 vintage, a year with mildew, is still remembered. We learned lessons from this, particularly in spacing and managing treatments. » Then, the hail caused some damage, for example on La Côte. This difficult year ended with harvests in the rain. “I looked at the threatening sky and its reflections on Lake Geneva and I said to myself: what a challenge for those who harvest! Their commitment in such conditions is remarkable,” confides Olivier Mark, president of the Communauté Interprofessionnelle du Vin Vaudois (CIVV). “Once again, the quality of the grapes was assured,” insists François Montet. The heavy rains especially had an impact on our organization. We don’t harvest in the rain and when it stopped, we still had to wait for the grapes to dry. We could never schedule the week. The cold was more of an advantage. With foehn and a few degrees more, the rot would have spread and there would have been a stampede! » Against all expectations, the harvest dates were right on average for the last ten years.
A terrible year?
So, will we remember 2024 as an annus horribilis? “We must absolutely be careful not to talk about a climate that has never been seen before,” comments Olivier Viret, head of the vitiviniculture skills center of the State of Vaud. “History shows that there have been much worse! It is true that the precipitation this September was exceptional, with more than 221 mm, compared to 98 mm on average over the last thirty years, but the temperatures were within normal limits. » Indeed, the number of summer days (over 25 degrees) and tropical days (over 30 degrees) corresponds exactly to the average. There is no point in comparing with the temperatures of 2022 and 2023, which are completely out of the norm. “This vintage will be fantastic for connoisseurs,” puts Olivier Mark into perspective. It will highlight the characteristics of each terroir and the great diversity of Vaudois wines. » Can we qualify it as a “vintage for oenologists”, according to a phrase heard here and there this fall? “I have the deep conviction that this is above all a year for winegrowers,” replies François Montet. When conditions are difficult, profession, experience and know-how take on all their importance. » Started in 2022, the recovery plan for Vaud viticulture will not be impacted by this slightly lower harvest compared to quotas. “The recovery plan takes on its full importance with more complicated harvests,” confirms Olivier Mark. We don’t get help from heaven every year. »
