Almost all Israelis who visit Thailand pass through Bangkok, a sprawling city of around 10 million inhabitants. Its main road stretches 97 kilometers – almost the distance from Tel Aviv to Haifa. Bangkok is a city of contrasts: tall skyscrapers stand next to narrow houses, and neighborhood luxury centers are bustling with street food stalls. It is a vibrant city, full of color and atmosphere, but also affected by pollution and smog.
Bangkok is home to over 20,000 Buddhist temples and a vibrant Jewish community. Today, thousands of Israeli and American Jews live in the city, having first arrived to work and decided to stay. Surprisingly, many Thais I spoke to did not know the term “Jew”.
Synagogues in Bangkok
Bangkok has three functioning synagogues, reflecting a richer Jewish history than other cities in the Far East. About a century ago, Jews from Europe, Syria and Iran arrived in Bangkok. At first, they prayed in private homes. One member of the community left a plot of land for an Ashkenazi synagogue, “Beth Elisheva,” named in her memory. The building, with Star of David stained glass and gate-like grills shaped like a menorah, was not large. Recently, “Beth Elisheva” was demolished for reconstruction (Address: Sukhumvit Soi 22).
The city also hosts a Sephardic synagogue, “Even Chen,” which was founded by jewelers – some of whom live in Bangkok permanently, while others visit for weeks or just days every year. “Even Chen” does not have a permanent place, moving between hotels in the diamond district of Bangkok. Today, he works under the guidance of Rabbi David Hadad at Hilton Silom.
Thirty-three years ago, worshipers of “Beth Elisheva” wrote to the Lubavitcher Rebbe, asking for a rabbi. The Rebbe sent Rabbi Yosef Kantor, who is now the chief rabbi of Thailand. About three years later, Rabbi Kantor wrote to the Rebbe about his struggles in managing the community and the 30,000 tourists who visit each year (a number that has now grown to over 300,000) . The Rebbe Rabbi Nechemya Wilhelm, who founded a unique Chabad House for travelers in 1995, the first of its kind in the world. Two years ago, a magnificent building for the Chabad House was established on Khao San Road, which was the main meeting place for Israelis.
Jewish Cemetery
About 20 years ago, a piece of land was bought for a Jewish cemetery in the center of Bangkok. Although there are no specific tombstones of great Jewish people, it is still worth a visit, if only to see a Jewish cemetery in an unexpected place. The tombstones have a uniform shape, reminiscent of those in a military cemetery in Israel.
The Great Palace
The Grand Palace is one of the main attractions in Bangkok. Built about 250 years ago by the king of Siam (the old name of Thailand), the royal palace is surrounded by a white concrete wall, enclosing several temples, gardens, and magnificent architectural structures.
Dusit is the most impressive, built on a marble platform. Phra Kaeo Temple, the most important temple in Thailand, is home to the Emerald Buddha, a symbol of the country’s good fortune. Visitors must dress modestly; shorts and sleeveless shirts are not allowed.
Today, the palace is used only for ceremonies, because the king lives in another palace in the city. Thais have great respect for their king, with his portrait and a special altar-like table, covered in yellow cloth, prominently displayed on main streets and in many shopping centers. Preparations are currently underway to celebrate the king’s birthday, and it is illegal to criticize the king or talk about his age.
Chao Phraya River
From the great palace, a 5-minute walk takes us to the river that crosses the city from north to south. Often referred to as the “Venice of the East”, the river has small canals and is plied by long-tailed narrow boats with noisy engines. There are also river buses that stop at nine stations along the way. Taking one of these boats is a great way to see how people once lived in Bangkok, with old wooden houses on the banks of the river. It is best to navigate with a city map to understand what you see along the way.
Wat Arun Temple
While you are floating on the river, you will see Wat Arun, a temple shaped like an inverted bell, at a height of 82 meters. The structure is decorated with intricate architectural decorations, with each step reaching chest level. The building materials of the temple include Chinese pottery, shells, and porcelain, decorated with various figures and geographical elements. Inside, stairs lead to an observation deck with a panoramic view of the city. I recommend renting traditional clothes from one of the stalls outside (for about 4 shekels) and taking pictures with the temple in the background.
It is worth visiting Wat Arun twice: once during the dayafter your river cruise to appreciate the architecture, and again at night. Despite its name, “Temple of Dawn,” it is even more beautiful at night when special lights give it a golden glow, enhanced by the movement of ceramics. The best view is from the other bank of the river.
A floating market
Located in the Damnoen Saduak area, the floating market is about an hour and a half away from central Bangkok (when there is no traffic). Plan to spend half a day here. On the docks and anchorages, canoes sell fruit, vegetables and flowers. Women in wide-brimmed straw hats sail these beautiful boats, some of which double as kitchens where the locals cook soup and noodles. You can either walk along the banks or take a boat ride among the stalls. Once the local shopping centre, the market has become a major tourist attraction since a more accessible road was built, forcing locals to shop in the city centre. As a result, many stalls and boats here have turned into souvenir shops.
Flower Market
A flower market offers a wonderful selection of jasmine, orchids, and dozens of other types of flowers in various colors and sizes. At most stalls, women create bouquets or weave leaves into attractive shapes such as necklaces, stars, and cubes. Their skillful work is fascinating to behold. The market operates 24 hours a day, but it is best to visit in the morning when boats and trucks arrive with fresh supplies, and local flower shop owners come to stock up.
Train market
Talat Rot Fai market stalls extend all the way to the train tracks, sometimes even between the tracks. This market is crowded and lively, with the smell of dried fish in the air, although clothes and vegetables are also sold here. Customers walk in the middle of the aisles.
Every half hour, a call is sent: “Here is the train,” and the vendors clear their goods quickly and efficiently from the tracks. Some boxes are left near the tracks, just under the floor of the train car. The vendors also move aside the poles that support the shade canopies. The train goes through the market slowly, and as soon as it has left, the sellers immediately return their stalls to their previous positions.
Patpong Night Market
Bangkok is home to several night markets, which open at 8pm. A night market is worth visiting for the experience alone, not just for the shopping. One of the biggest and liveliest is Patpong, where you can find everything – clothes, toys, souvenirs, and tropical fruits like mangoes or melon-sized guavas. Patpong is also a hub for fake brands such as Rolex watches, Louis Vuitton wallets, and Adidas shoes, all at rock bottom prices. You will also find many stalls selling Thai food, especially various noodles and soups such as shark fin soup. Some stalls even offer snake meat, various insects, and a small crocodile with skin, from which the seller cuts pieces, similar to shawarma in Israel.
Supermarkets
Bangkok is blessed with many modern shops offering a wide variety of goods. One of the biggest is IconSIAM. Every evening at 7pm, there is a colorful and musical water fountain show outside the shopping center on the promenade between it and the river.
Kidzania
If you are traveling with children, a visit to the Siam Paragon center is a must. Inside, you will find a small town with buildings and roads, where every child is invited to “work” in a profession of their choice, such as doctor, builder, driver, cook, and more. The children receive matching professional uniforms and, after some training, they work in their chosen profession. At the end, they receive a “salary” in local currency, which they can use to buy gifts at the local shop – an unforgettable experience.
San Khao Road
Khao San Road is often referred to as the “street of Israel” in Bangkok, or the “backpacker ghetto”. It’s a vibrant, busy place known for its lively nightlife, affordable accommodation, and unique atmosphere. Hebrew is often heard on this street, which has restaurants offering menus in Hebrew, street food vendors (some selling fried insects), bars, nightclubs, massage parlors, and shops selling electronics and jewelry – many of them owned by Israelis. There are also several travel agencies on the street that specialize in traveling around Thailand.
It is not surprising that a Chabad House was established here, which is a major center for Israeli tourists. Chabad House is modern and luxurious, offering 5-star facilities. Inside, there are dairy and meat restaurants, luggage storage, and laundry service. Naturally, there is also a synagogue and a Beit Midrash, which has a yeshiva, a children’s daycare, and an elementary school. On the second floor there is a comfortable lounge with sofas, and on the ground floor there is a kosher grocery store. There is also a kosher supermarket on the other side of town. Every Friday night, the Chabad House hosts a Kabbalat Shabbat dinner, attended by 300-600 Israelis, both locals and visitors. Last Passover, Rabbi Nehemya Wilhelm organized the largest seder in the world, with 6,000 participants. In the basement of the Chabad House there is a mikveh for men and women, which, according to my wife, is the most beautiful mikveh in the world.
Chabad House in Bangkok has an extensive library of religious texts for study and borrowing. Rabbi Nehemiah Wilhelm’s next project is to launch a mobile library that will travel between the Chabad Houses in Thailand, allowing tourists to borrow a book in one city and return it to another.
Rabbi Nehemya Wilhelm explained: “The Rebbe wanted us to help people both physically and spiritually. We identified what the tourists needed, and we try to provide it. It’s our goal to give people reasons to come to us.”
The author was a guest of TAT and its chamber in Israel.
