Cartier Privé Tortue watch, with yellow gold case, sapphire cabochon and leather strap (€33,800).
D.R.
In terms of watchmaking, the house Cartier has a strong historical link with the square, semi-rectangular or rectangular shapes of iconic models (and their variants) such as the Santos or the Tank (or the Panthère, although it was released many years later). In more modern times it has embraced the traditional circle in the also very successful Blue Balloon (the darling of politics Kamala Harris y Princess Kate Middleton) o Pashabut the relationship of the maison French with geometry in that field, as with jewelry, is much more diverse. In fact, one of the first forms that this house adopted for a watch is the very classic (and rare to see today) Tortoise —or, which is the same, turtle in French, since the box resembles the shell of this animal—.
The Tortue silhouette is so old for Cartier – its introduction dates back to 1912 – that it is only preceded by that of the Santos-Dumont (1904), the first modern wristwatch. Then, in the following decade, it gained mechanical prestige when it began to integrate ambitious complications such as the minute repeater, although over time the Tortue stopped having the depth of the aforementioned models. However, now, when the aesthetic neovintage is more relevant and appreciated than ever, the time has come to be vindicated. And Cartier provides a golden opportunity – never better said – to do this, making it the protagonist of its Privé collection in 2024, which annually rescues an unusual and historical watch from its archives to update it – always respecting its original forms – in new ones. Limited editions to the delight of collectors.
Among the new Cartier Privé Tortue we find, first, three models with hours and minutes that are very faithful to the original from 1912, with that attractive play between curved and straight lines and very distinctive hallmarks. maison in the details: knob-shaped hands, railway minute track and sapphire (or ruby) cabochon on the crown. And it is adorned with the most precious materials: yellow gold (pictured), platinum or platinum set with diamonds. Furthermore, for those nostalgic for the complications of the 1920s, the Tortue Monopusher Chronograph returns, also in beautiful gold or platinum versions.
The Cartier Privé Tortue in four keys
Manufacturing movements
The hours and minutes integrate the 430 MC manual movement, one of Cartier’s thinnest. The chronographs, the prestigious 1928 MC.
Interchangeable
The alligator leather straps are interchangeable and initially come in semi-matte blue (gold models) and burgundy red (platinum models).
Numbered editions
The Cartier Privé Tortue are limited to 200 pieces (each of the gold and platinum versions) and 50 pieces (platinum and diamonds).
Monopulsator
In chronographs, their
two counters start, stop and reset
with a single pusher integrated into the crown.
