Laura Read, a former beauty influencer from London, didn’t understand why her skin was having problems. She regularly collaborated with cosmetic companies for her tutorials on YouTube and had the opportunity to choose from lotions, potions and creams of all kinds to address her problems. But nothing seemed to help. Read said he had struggled with “an uneven forehead, white specs around his eyes and eczema on his cheeks” for years. Ultimately, she reflected on “the amount of products I was testing and trying.” She limited herself to cleanser and moisturizer, “no serum, no toner, no face mask, nothing,” and her skin problems resolved within weeks. Mary Schook, a New York-based beautician to the stars, has witnessed similar stories. You said that your clients often come to you fired up and confused: they have access to the “best” products money can buy, but they have the “worst” skin of their lifeto. “Every rendezvous is a reconnaissance mission,” Schook said. “People stress their skin by using too many skincare products”. All this doesn’t just happen to stars and influencers, experts say. With the rise of more elaborate skincare regimens on social media and the continued growth of product sales, consumers who follow these routines are also having problems.
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Pimples and other skin problems occur for a variety of reasons, from psychological stress to hormones, but overapplication of products can also contribute, said Dr. Sonia Khorana, a UK-based dermatologist. The skin barrier is the body’s outermost layer and the immune system’s first line of defense, said Dr. Tamia Harris-Tryon, professor of dermatology at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center. Composed mainly of proteins and fats, it protects against environmental threats, also known as stress factors. These include sunlight, pollutants, allergens, irritants and microbes, she said. “The barrier is like armor that breaks down attackers so they become harmless,” said Ron Robinson, a New York-based cosmetic chemist. But prolonged exposure to any of those stressors can result in overtaxed skin. Skincare ingredients can also be stressors. And every ingredient applied to the skin is another potential threat to the skin barrier, Robinson said. The more products you use, the harder it may be for your skin to do its job and more problems may arise, Harris-Tryon added. Excessive use of products can cause dryness, redness, pimples, blemishes and dermatitis. And it can lead to the exacerbation of underlying skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, eczema and psoriasis. But “it is possible to destress your skin,” Khorana said. All you need is less.
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To start, “take a break from the active”, said Dr. Whitney Bowe, a New York-based dermatologist. These ingredients “trigger” superficial changes in the skin and include things like retinoids, vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide and lactic acid. They’re often celebrated for their abilities to “tackle wrinkles or even skin tone,” but impressive results can come with unintended consequences, Robinson said. You should also avoid any facial cleanser that feels itchy or tight, as both are signs of a disturbed skin barrier, Bowe said. Khorana added that this is especially true for detergents that contain surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), as this class of ingredient can cause “dryness, irritation, and eczema.” Avoid products with alcohol, exfoliants, essential oils and perfumes, Bowe said, as these are also likely irritants. And he considers giving up towels, because rubbing the skin can be harmful, he added. In short: “If a product is inflaming your skin or making it red, don’t use it,” Harris-Tyron said. The same goes for cosmetics that leave tingling or prickling sensations.
How to rebuild your skincare regime
While your skin is healing, all experts agree to keep to a minimum: cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. “Use a gentle, non-foaming, pH-balanced cleanser,” Khorana said, and use warm water to rinse. You don’t even need to wash your face twice a day, Bowe said. “If you want to skip cleansing in the morning and just splash your face with a little water, that’s totally fine.” Look for a moisturizer with “calming, soothing, nourishing” properties and apply it to damp skin morning and night, she said. She suggested formulas containing ingredients known to support the skin barrier, such as squalane, jojoba and sunflower oils and ceramides. For daytime sun protection, Bowe said mineral sunscreens based on zinc oxide can be gentler on the skin than chemical formulas. Khorana said it can take about four weeks for your skin to heal, so be sure to stick to your new routine. “It is important to be patient while the skin repairs itself”, he said. Once his clients recover, Schook said they rarely return to their previous multistep routines: “If they’re seeing results with this really simplified approach, why would they do it?”
c.2024 The New York Times Company
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– 2024-03-29 09:56:03
