“Physically tired, but inside often fresh and satisfied, the Kreuzberg pilgrims’ procession returned from their four-day pilgrimage from Schwebenried. They had covered around 120 kilometers Friends “This is how our reporter reported in August 2018 about the invasion of the Arnstein Kreuzberg riders. At that time it was the 371st Arnstein Kreuzberg pilgrimage. In 2020 and 2021, the pilgrimages were canceled due to the corona.
The Arnstein Kreuzberg pilgrimage is carried out by the Arnstein Brotherhood of the Cross and is one of the oldest in Lower Franconia. The year 1647 is often given as the starting point for the pilgrimage, but this statement is only partially correct. In August 1647 the first pilgrimage of the Würzburgers took place, which the Arnsteiner ?? after the trip went through their city ??? have connected, reports the Arnsteiner homeland researcher Günther Liepert, who was there several times himself. The own pilgrimage to the Holy Mountain of the Franks is documented for the first time in a brotherhood bill from 1716/18, in which expenses for a procession there are listed. The cost of the musicians in three years was 15 guilders.
The number of pilgrimages is unclear. Although the 374th is officially valid this year, this number is certainly too high, because in 1803, after the secularization, processions of more than half a day were banned until 1826. Pilgrimages were also often prohibited by the National Socialists. The people of Arnstein circumvented these bans by waving in secret or in small groups, reports former mayor Roland Metz.
While the people of Würzburg and Karlstadt start their way to the Rhön in the second half of August, the people of Arnstein have been making their way on the last Friday in August for around 60 years, until then it was only in September because the farmers wanted their harvest beforehand to know for sure.
The process has been the same for many years: it starts at 6.45 a.m. with the blessing in the parish church. Then the “selection” takes place. The luggage is loaded. Each pilgrim receives an accompanying note that describes the route and the times. In addition, almost all of them have a pilgrimage booklet, which also contains the path, the prayers and the chants.
The way there leads over Schwemmelsbach and Wasserlosen, lunch is at a forest chapel in front of Sulzthal. In Aschach, guest rooms have already been reserved for the way there and back. Some pilgrims have been with the same hosts for many years. Liepert reports on the way to the mountain of Franconia: Of course there is a lot of prayers and singing in the group, after all, the Kreuzberg musicians are also there. In between, someone recites from the Bible. But in between there is always time for conversations or personal reflection.
In addition to some refreshing sections of the route through shady forests, the pilgrims also plague steep climbs such as at Euerdorf near the Aura castle ruins. It’s extremely exhausting in the midday heat. Everyone upstairs is grateful for the refreshing drinks in the support vehicle. The “Kniebrech”, the last stretch from Hasselbach to the monastery, is also feared. Sometimes, according to Liepert, the discipline leaves a little to be desired. Some rush ahead, others are so engrossed in dialogue that they miss the next rosary. But this is mostly due to the weak speakers. Around noon on the second day, the pilgrims have covered a total of around 51 kilometers and reach the monastery on the Kreuzberg.
Roland Metz reports about their stay: The priest receives the Arnsteiners and gives them the blessing, after which they invade the church. Then the accommodations will be distributed. There are single rooms and larger group dormitories. Traditionally, the musicians always have their own dormitory. In the late afternoon, people go to the crosses together to pray the Way of the Cross.
But then, after showering and changing, it’s time to rinse the dust of the street off your throat; with the famous Klosterbräu from Kreuzberg, of course. The evening is reserved for a cozy get-together in the Antoniussaal. However, only until 9 p.m., from then on nothing will be served. Resourceful pilgrims who love to drink know their way around and quickly order an extra measure shortly before the tap closes. In the past, the Arnstein Waller seemed to have earned a very special reputation, after all there were the following lines about them: “Würzburg are the prayers, Ochsenfurt the steppers, Thüngersheim the runners and Arnstein the drunkards”.
Kränzchenbinden in Aschach
The next day there is another service at eight o’clock and in the afternoon there is a ball. The way home is similar to before. A highlight of the pilgrimage is tying a wreath while staying overnight in Aschach. In a joint effort, pretty wreaths are tied to the vehicles and flags for the pilgrimage crosses and also for the crosses after dinner.
A special feature is the “Last Rest” in the Kaistener Grund. A few years ago, the confectioners from Arnstein were waiting there, selling sweets that were hung on the wallwedel for people to return home. Today coffee and cake are brought here to rest.
In the further course of the last stretch, the pilgrims in villages such as Greßthal and Schwemmelsbach are often expected with flowers and a cool drink. “The next stretch to Schwebenried takes a long time,” says Günther Liepert. You see the church tower again and again and think that after the next bend you should be in the village. But there is another bend and another bend and the final stage is similar.
Then finally the outskirts of Arnstein become visible. The large processional flags are rolled out, the dusty clothes are knocked off and the pilgrimage guide is now dressed in an imposing red coat and hat. Dozens of friends and relatives of the pilgrims line the path along the Schwabbach. Many greet their loved ones with a bouquet of flowers and a warm hug. The last way leads into the parish church for a joint closing service, during which the Mother of God is honored with the song “O heavenly Queen”.
Why do people do this? Why do you walk? often in scorching heat ?? with others to a mountain in the Rhön and accept exhaustion, thirst and sore feet? The former mayor of Metz himself went along for decades and absorbed people’s feelings. There is, of course, faith. Even in prehistoric times, people came together in special “places of power”. Christianity has adopted these rites. There are also pilgrimages in Islam and the Asian religions. It was and still is important to come to rest here, perhaps to repent or to be able to think about important things.
But Metz also knows a more profane reason from the past. “A hundred years ago people had no vacation and hardly any real free time. The four days away from home – away from the eternal ‘Gfrett’ – were also a piece of inner freedom. You could also spend time in company and meet old friends again and find new ones. “
There is a special feature of the Arnstein pilgrimage. According to Günther Liepert, there are hardly more escort vehicles than in Arnstein. The pilgrim of the 21st century no longer goes on a pilgrimage alone with a backpack or satchel. Before the church visit, the suitcases are handed in, for which a fee of seven euros has to be paid. The brotherhood chairman drives in front of the wall people, followed by a transport vehicle with nine seats from the Red Cross. After the group of pilgrims come the “Marodiwagen”, the drinks cart and finally the baggage cart.
Marodiwagen used to be a horse and cart
The Marodiwagen probably got its name from “ailing”, after all it is supposed to take in those with foot sickness and other health problems. More than a hundred years ago, this was a horse-drawn vehicle. However, special pilgrims had their own “chaise” with them, a comfortable touring car for in between.
The number of participants fluctuates very strongly today between 170 and 230 people; In 2017 there were 160. The people come not only from Arnstein and the surrounding villages, but from the entire Werntal as far as Karlstadt. Even today it is noticeable that even many young people are on their way to find their reflection on the Holy Mountain of the Franks.
About the author: Günter Roth was a teacher in the Werntal for a long time and is familiar with the local history. He is also deputy chairman of the Stetten History Friends.
Reading tip: Missed the entry into the series? You can find the series parts published so far at www.mainpost.de/geschichte_mspL.
Swell: Experience reports from Roland Metz and Günther Liepert; “Arnsteiner Kreuzberg-Pilgrimage” by Günther Liepert; The pilgrimage to the Kreuzberg “Wolfgang Brückner 1997.
–
