Embracing the Arctic Night: Stories from Those Who Thrive in the Darkness
Imagine a world where the sun never rises, where day and night blend into a perpetual twilight. This is the reality for those living in the Arctic and Antarctic circles during the polar night, a time when darkness reigns for months on end.
Contrary to popular belief that this prolonged darkness would drain the spirit and disrupt routines, several individuals who have experienced it firsthand paint a much different picture.
For Graeme Chesters, a photographer and researcher at the 90 North Foundation, the polar night in Svalbard, an archipelago nestled between Norway and the North Pole, is nothing short of enchanting. "There’s an anticipation about the dark and the spectacles it brings, like the northern lights, the full moon, and starlight," Chesters explains.
"It’s not long before you realize it’s a unique opportunity," he says, adding that the chance to witness the northern lights at any time of day, gaze upon the Milky Way with unparalleled clarity, and experience starlight like never before makes the darkness a profound and beautiful experience.
Chesters’ first taste of the polar night two years ago was marked by a sense of community. "There are lots of communal events, like the Blues Festival", he shares, noting that "it becomes a very social time."
He also reflects on the peacefulness of the season. "Rather than seeing it as something to just get through, you realize it’s something to be enjoyed," Chesters emphasizes. "You can curl up with a good book, wear your thick wool jumper, and truly savor the stillness."
Pen Hadow, founder of the 90 North Foundation, describes his polar night adventure as a "starry wonder" that was both challenging and magical.
During a 30-day sledge-hauling expedition across Spitsbergen in the early 1990s, Hadow experienced the unrelenting chill firsthand.
"The hardest thing was the cold," he recalls. "It was rock hard, with no warmth during the 24-hour cycle. It made me appreciate the value of sunlight to life."
However, he was amazed by his eyes’ adaptation to the darkness. His vision finetuned after only a few days, allowing him to discern details with remarkable clarity. "It’s like a fuzzy TV screen at first," Hadow explains, "but then your brain adjusts and starts to see patterns it couldn’t before."
His experience proved to be a profoundly unique and unforgettable one. "It’s like a nugget of gold," Hadow states.
For Bryony Hegard and her husband Henrik, who call Svalbard home, embracing the gloom is simply a way of life. "Some people dislike the dark because they find it depressing," Henrik admits, "but I find it cosily relaxing." Bryony chimes in, adding, "If you stick to your routine and have a bit of fun with it, the dark season can be enjoyed."
The couple thrives in the hushed atmosphere, finding solstice celebrations more appealing than the frenetic pace of the busy summer tourist season when the sun never sets. "You feel overcharged like a Duracell battery," Bryony illustrates. “Years ago, we went outside for a walk at 3 am on a summer night and by the time we returned home, it still looked like the middle of the day.”
In contrast, the winter months offer a time for slower living and richer social connections. “With the slower pace,” Bryony explains, “people find time to connect and socialize more.”
Outdoor activities like ice climbing, mountain hikes, and northern lights viewing parties are still popular amidst the snowy landscape, proof that Svalbard residents embrace the unique beauty of their environment year-round.
“If you have moonlight and snow on the ground, you can see as well as if the sun’s out,” Bryony reveals. “The sky feels bigger and brighter. You absorb the stars and the northern lights like never before.”
The Arctic night, far from being a dreary or debilitating time, offers a chance to disconnect from the frenetic pace of life and reconnect with nature’s own rhythms. From stunning celestial displays to cozy indoor gatherings, there’s a unique magic to be found embracing the darker side of earth.
