Illustrative photo of the Auberge du Pont-de-Collonges near Lyon. JEFF PACHOUD – AFP
- In the aftermath of the thunderclap that hit the Bocuse galaxy, Yves Rouèche, author of the book History (s) of Lyon gastronomy, leans for 20 minutes on the consequences of this star lost in Michelin.
- He does not imagine at all the frequentation of the Auberge du Pont-de-Collonges decrease this year following this hard blow, on the contrary.
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Random calendar, Yves Rouèche had scheduled for next Tuesday, as part of his courses on gastronomy at the Catholic University of
Lyon, a zoom on the work of Paul Bocuse. This Lyonnais author, who notably published in November 2018 History (s) of Lyon gastronomy (Libel editions), delivers their feelings on
removing the third star from the Auberge du Pont-de-Collonges in Collonges-au-Mont-d´Or (Rhône), which rocked the culinary world on Friday.
• THE GUEST OF THE WEEK •
It has been almost 50 years since a book had not retraced the history of gastronomy in Lyon. Yves Rouèche, an author passionate about good food, took up this challenge. Meet. → https://t.co/qLW64q1c05#TribuneDeLyon #Interview pic.twitter.com/pSKemiPRLv
– Tribune de Lyon (@tribunedelyon) June 11, 2019
What was your reaction when you discovered the decision of the Michelin guide, after 55 years at three stars for the establishment of Paul Bocuse?
It pains me a lot because I feel like we’re burning the throne of the king and his castle with it. The Michelin guide would obviously never have dared take a star from Paul Bocuse during his lifetime. But be careful that the Michelin does not burn with … Today, it marks us very strongly but it remains an epiphenomenon, all resounding as it may be.
Does this mean that in your opinion, there will not be as many negative consequences as that for the Michelin-starred restaurant in Collonges-au-Mont-d´Or?
I don’t think there will be any immediate consequences, either economically or in terms of popularity. Gastronomy lovers know that this is not where they will find the most creative restaurant or eat fusion cuisine. On the other hand, even if we have to reinvent ourselves, this traditional touch still has an audience and in my opinion there is no possible loss of notoriety. So it would surprise me that attendance (around 45,000 covered per year) decreases in 2020, and I almost want to say that it could be the opposite phenomenon. Because many people find this decision unfair and will show their support for the restaurant. And we know that the pro-Bocuse consider him a living god.
The Bocuse family “upset” by the loss of the third star https://t.co/rB7tLYInlw
– 20 Minutes (@ 20Minutes) January 17, 2020
In the longer term, don’t you think that with the disappearance of Paul Bocuse two years ago and then this loss of star, Lyon’s gastronomy could be in danger?
M.Paul is no more and nobody today has his reputation as an ambassador for bringing Lyon specialties and even French gastronomy in this way. The only way for me to continue to attract many foreign tourists is in the gastronomic valley (inaugurated in June 2019). This can offer for a week a tourist experience unique in the world, from Dijon to Marseille. By 2025, Lyon should transfer its title of capital of gastronomy to this entire valley, with chefs involved in the project such as Dominique Loiseau, Anne-Sophie Pic and Gérald Passedat.
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