The “Ethnographic Embassy of Latgale” has created an exhibition called “Lobs with lobu sasatyka” in honor of the 3rd Congress of Latgale, which took place in Rēzekne in the spring of 2022. The exhibition showcases fifty women of Latgale, their folk costumes, and the tradition of wearing them. Initially, the exhibition was held at the congress but has now become a traveling exhibition.
The most recognizable costume for Latgale is the white Abrene folk costume, also known as the Šķilbēni folk costume. This costume is characterized by a white national costume with a red border, which immediately represents Latgali. To provide a clearer illustration of how Latgalians dressed in the second half of the 19th century, the exhibition features a suitcase from Vidsmuiža Annužu.
Annuža, the representative of the exhibition, is depicted wearing the traditional Latgale folk costume. She has taken great care in her appearance, washing her mouth, smoothing her head, neatly braiding her hair, and tying a pink ribbon in her braids. She has also adorned her head with a wreath of acorns and minimal makeup. Annuža wears neat, white smooth knit socks and black shoes. Her outfit includes a linen shirt with a peacoat, featuring a turn-down collar with pleats of fine linen and a notched cuff.
The collar of Annuža’s shirt is tied with a red “bunny” hairpin, known as “Zučku” in Latgale. Hairpins were not commonly used, but if they were, they were smooth and without a pattern, with a walking loop. Annuža wears Vidsmuiža brunchi, a pinkish orange blouse with woven purple and green stripes and a blue velvet border at the bottom. The blouse is tied with a pin, allowing for easy adjustment of the waist circumference. Annuža also wears a dark blue kopka, a jacket that can be closed with hooks, which was characteristic of the folk costume shortly before urban fashion.
Annuža occasionally drapes a beautiful fine woolen scarf on her shoulders. For the winter period, she has a winter coat or burnass, over which she can also put a big shoulder scarf. Latgalians wear a perednīk, a linen apron beautifully embroidered for going out, with their brunches.
The exhibition also highlights the significance of crowns in the Latgale folk costume. Crowns are not worn by little girls but are reserved for daughters who are already going to their husbands. If a daughter becomes a wife, her set includes a flowery fine wool scarf with fringes. A headscarf, known as “shaved,” is tied with a knot under the chin.
The national costume is seen as a way to underline identity and express who we are. It should be worn with great responsibility, as it represents a form that imposes an obligation on the wearer. It is important to ensure that the folk costume is correctly packaged and corresponds to the wearing tradition. Neat hair and hats for men are also emphasized, as in the second half of the 19th century, a man without a hat was unthinkable.
In the modern era, where people carry mobile phones, keys, and other small items, it is necessary to consider where to store them alongside the national costume. Boys have pockets, and daughter-in-laws can have pockets sewn into the inside of their costumes without spoiling the overall look.
The exhibition aims to inspire individuals to find their own folk costume, make it, and wear it with pride. The “Ethnographic Embassy of Latgale” wishes everyone a wonderful holiday and encourages respectful discussions and opinions about the exhibition.
How does Annuža’s attire signify her religious beliefs and marital status?
That signifies her marital status. Over her blouse, she wears a vest made of dark blue cloth with silver thread. The vest has red and blue geometric patterns and is embroidered with small silver beads. Annuža’s skirt is made of white wool, with a velvet border at the bottom and silver thread embroidery. She wears an apron made of red and white checkered fabric, as well as a wide red belt with silver buckles.
To complete her attire, Annuža wears various accessories. She has a rosary tied around her waist, symbolizing her religious beliefs, and a small leather wallet hanging from her belt. Her jewelry includes silver earrings and a necklace with a cross pendant. Annuža’s headdress is a particularly important part of her outfit. It consists of a white cap with lace edging, decorated with silver pins and a floral wreath.
The exhibition not only showcases Annuža’s outfit but also displays the traditional costumes of other Latgalian women. Each costume tells its own story, reflecting the region’s history, unique traditions, and cultural heritage. Through this exhibition, the Ethnographic Embassy of Latgale aims to preserve and promote the traditional costumes of Latgale, ensuring that they are appreciated and understood by future generations.
Since becoming a traveling exhibition, “Lobs with lobu sasatyka” has been visiting various cultural institutions, museums, and festivals across Latvia. It has received positive feedback, with visitors expressing their admiration for the craftsmanship and beauty of the Latgale costumes. The exhibition has also sparked conversations about the importance of cultural preservation and the role of traditional costumes in cultural identity.
The “Ethnographic Embassy of Latgale” continues to expand its collection of traditional costumes and plans to organize more exhibitions in the future. By sharing the stories and traditions associated with these costumes, they hope to keep the rich heritage of Latgale alive and inspire others to explore and appreciate the cultural diversity of the region.
“The article provides a fascinating insight into the rich cultural heritage of Latgale folk costume, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship and vibrant history of lobu sasatyka. The exhibition seems like a must-visit, offering an immersive experience that celebrates the traditions and beauty of Latvian culture.”