DWhat to lick your chops. Since June 2021, chef Florent Peineau, already seen at Gare aux gorilles in the 17e arrondissement, officiates in Bouche, opened by Angela Kong and Antoine Bernardin, at the corner of rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud and rue de Vaucouleurs. An old kebab, of which only the raw concrete walls have been preserved, and nothing else. Here, the chef offers “seasonal cuisine that comes in the form of plates to share, which are inventive, refined and regressive at the same time”, as can be read on his website. Nothing new, therefore, at first sight; this concept having flourished in the capital for a long time.
Something is surprising at Bouche, however, mainly on the plates. Take, for example, this hummus of lentils, borlotti beans and tahini (€9) which reveals a creamy texture, coated by the smoothness of its olive oil and enhanced by the crunch of the bean. We then like to sauce the dish again and again thanks to the pretty loaves of bread straight from the Sain bakery.
This regressive side, we find it immediately afterwards with these fish rillettes lying on their toast (€10). It’s summer, and it shows: dill and chives come to whip the fish. On the palate, it’s the parade of July 14 and the cabbage pickles add acidity to this dish mastered and accomplished like a summer evening with best friends.Masterful struggles
Then comes the monkfish in its tomato, mint and bergamot water bath, garnished with fennel (€28). The piece is magnificent, greedy, fleshy, and this amazing tomato water, obtained by infusing the fruit entirely before filtering it, brings the perfect acidity in response to the fennel. That’s a big yes! Too bad, however, for these parpadelles served with burrata, almonds, basil and candied tomatoes (€14), the delicacy of the almonds failing to make us forget a pastry that was overcooked for our taste.
READ ALSOThe taste of Paris – Why you will love Mordu
This disappointment is quickly erased by the veal hanger, zucchini and currants and candied lemon butter (€26). The meat is meltingly tender. The bitterness of the crunchy zucchini blends effortlessly with the acidity of the redcurrant, wrapped in a butter of unspeakable delicacy. It smells of the South. A dish that alone bears witness to the mastery of textures and flavors of chef Peineau and his restaurant, which ultimately bears his name well. Our mouths are still watering!The wine list is well worth a look, designed with the help of sommelier Antoine Duvignacq. We then let ourselves slip under an astonishing Breitstein red from the Ruhlmann-Dirringer estate (a maceration of pinot gris and pinot noir, €54) which goes well with the whole meal. For dessert, a tangy pop peach with verbena, its not too sweet tea whipped cream and its lemon cake that crumbles with a spoon (€10) round off a round meal.
READ ALSOThe taste of Paris – Why you will love Orgueil
Stuffy. 85, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Paris 11th. Wednesday to Saturday from 7 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. and Sunday from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. then from 7 p.m. to 12:30 a.m., https://www.boucheparis.com/
–
