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The Saint-Martin menu, a story of pigs: origins, evolution and… a recipe

Published on November 7, 2024 at 12:08 p.m. / Modified on November 7, 2024 at 8:19 p.m.

  • This weekend begins in Ajoie – and more widely in the Jura – the gargantuan festivities of Saint-Martin.

  • We eat the pig there from snout to tail – and household jelly to the roast.

  • Saint-Martin Jura is part of a vast network of similar celebrations in the northern hemisphere.

  • But what makes it unique? We’ll explain it to you.

The wild boar began to be domesticated around twelve thousand years ago. Almost everywhere on Earth, it evolved: its snout shortened, its muzzle and head widened, it lost a good part of its hair. The wild boar had become a pig, the Saint-Martins could be born.

A story that’s a little too abbreviated, like the pig’s snout? Certainly, and it would rightly make ethnologists and folklorists howl. But before we fill in the ellipses, let’s say that this is a parable indicating that the planet (or at least our hemisphere) experiences a wide range of traditional autumn feasts, and that the one we know best here is only one of its manifestations, crystallized in the following elements: it happens (generally) in Ajoie on the second Sunday of the month of November, and it ends after a menu of pork, the details of which may vary slightly, but not pantagruelian nature – household jelly, boiled meat, blood sausage, grilled meats, sauerkraut, roast. Without forgetting of course the totché (a savory cream cake) and the striflattes (sweet and fried donut dough). We won’t forget the middle shot either: a good glass of damastine (at 42°, it’s perfect) which generally appears between the grills and the sauerkraut to sweep the pipes.

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The Saint-Martin menu, a story of pigs: origins, evolution and… a recipe

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