The men's tuxedo: when to wear it and how, a style lesson from the 2024 Oscars

The men’s tuxedo is par excellence the most elegant item in the men’s wardrobe. And although a more informal style is in fashion today, it remains indispensable for very formal evening events, ceremonies, galas and theater premieres. During the Oscar 2024, last March 11th, various actors showed it off: some in dark fabric, some shiny, some with a sash or a vest. The important thing, however, when choosing such an important garment, is that all the elements are there for it to be perfect: the shawl or peak lapels covered in satin, the side band on the trousers, the dark colour. Thus, the matching accessories must be impeccable. And it doesn’t matter if current fashions propose many revisitations on the theme, starting with color and shapes. We like classic.

Where the tuxedo was born

For many, the tuxedo was born in London in 1865 by an exceptional tailor, Henry Poole, who created it on commission from King Edward VII. It spread first in England and then landed in America, where it was renamed with the name Tux or Tuxedo. According to another theory, however, this garment sees the light of day for the first time in the United States. We are in 1886, when the tobacco industrialist Griswold Lorillard wears it to go to the Tuxedo Club, in New Jersey. Hence the name. But regardless of the dispute between the two countries, one thing is certain: the tuxedo both in England and in the States was used by gentlemen who frequented the smoking rooms, rooms where between the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century people used to stop after dinner, to drink cognac and chat between cigars. They were “lent” a jacket to wear over their clothes to protect them from the smoke. This, at least initially, was the purpose of the smoking jacket: to absorb the smell of tobacco, protecting the clothing worn underneath.

In detail

The tuxedo suit jacket has satin lapels and welt pockets. It is usually single-breasted but the double-breasted version is also permitted. The waistcoat or waistcoat need not always be present. The trousers must match the jacket or, as in the case of Matthew McConaughey, in a shade “accepted” by the dress code such as dark wine. “You can range in the choice of colors and patterns (damask, embroidery etc…) depending on the occasion” explain by Pal Zileri, a men’s fashion brand, “But the black version is certainly the most iconic and elegant choice. As for all formal clothes the never rule applies: under no circumstances take off your jacket during an event”. Furthermore, the tuxedo must have a band of black silk or satin covering the side seam. The most famous version (James Bond in Goldfinger) is black, and is the which many still refer to today.

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On what occasions is it used and when not

Being an evening dress, it is absolutely forbidden to wear it before 6pm. However, it is mandatory when you receive a black tie invitation.

How to wear it

“It should always be worn with a waist band and a bow tie, preferably hand-tied. It can also be worn with a thin silk tie. The shirt must be strictly white with a slim fit cut, smooth or pleated with double cuffs for cufflinks or mother-of-pearl buttons. combined with the classic shirt with the wing collar. It can also be worn with the shirt with the classic collar if you prefer. The extra touch for greater elegance is the white linen pocket square. The shoe must be equally elegant as the Oxford, also called Oxford, in patent leather to be worn with knee-length black socks in light wool or silk. “The ideal would be to wear the tuxedo with a cape, or with a long dark-coloured coat and with an elegant cut without a belt, with double-breasted or single-breasted with lapel” explain by Pal Zileri. In the contemporary version many men like to desacralize the tuxedo by wearing it with a pair of white sneakers or by wearing only the jacket over a pair of jeans. These “rock” variations are only allowed in informal or creative environments and only if the invitation does not include the famous black tie wording.