Kebaya, a traditional blouse worn by women in Southeast Asia, has been nominated jointly by Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei, and Thailand for UNESCO’s prestigious intangible cultural heritage list. The decision is expected in 2024. The intricately embroidered blouse is suited for hot tropical weather and ranges from loose-fitting to semi-transparent, figure-hugging cuts. Women of all ages and ethnic backgrounds have been wearing kebaya to weddings and formal events, and now they are making a comeback among enthusiasts who wear them in daily life. Charmaine Neo, 36, said she wears the garment to attend family events, while Telly Nathalia, 49, wears them every day as a way to connect with her country’s history.
Kebaya is believed to have originated in the Middle East and was once worn by both men and women. Over a dozen styles have been developed across Southeast Asia, mostly in Indonesia and Malaysia. Indonesia picked kebaya as its national dress for women after it declared independence from the Netherlands in 1945. The blouse was made popular by Malaysian film actors, while Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia’s national airlines adopted it as inspiration for their uniforms.
Lim Yu Lin, who co-runs a family business that her grandmother founded in 1955, said kebaya was not only meant for one culture. It is a form of traditional women’s garment that has evolved over time, said Yeo Kirk Siang, a senior director at Singapore’s National Heritage Board (NHB), who organized a kebaya exhibition in April following the UNESCO nomination. “There was a kind of fusion of cultures, influences, and different communities that brought about their kebayas,” he added.
A kebaya may cost as little as $7 for a simple, machine-made design to around $1,200 for a more intricate handmade piece. Oniatta Effendi, a fashion designer in Singapore who creates modern takes on the traditional blouse, said it is a symbol of cultural heritage. “Many of us grow up seeing a kebaya worn by our mothers and grandmothers. It represents our culture, our identity,” she said in an NHB statement. “The kebaya may present itself differently in various countries. Its importance to each person may also be different, but one thing is sure: the kebaya brings us together through an identity that is shared.”
The UNESCO World Heritage list comprises cultural and natural sites or practices, and intangible cultural heritage, including oral traditions, performing arts, and traditional knowledge. The purpose of the list is to protect cultural treasures from around the world and promote international cooperation and understanding. It includes well-known sites such as the Great Wall of China and the Pyramids of Egypt, as well as lesser-known cultural practices like traditional falconry skills in the United Arab Emirates and Swiss watchmaking. Wennie Yeo, a senior producer at the Mud Rock Media production studio, said being on the UNESCO World Heritage list brings significant recognition for the kebaya and Southeast Asian culture overall. “It will help to raise awareness of our cultural heritage and reveal how we are preserving it,” she said. “It also helps us to promote tourism in the region.”
