You can take the elevator to the 100th floor. Then put on your overalls, buckle up and scramble up the last 40 meters in altitude over 132 steps. Floating freely on the harness, you can then look down 400 meters from the skyscraper onto Manhattan.
“The Climb” on the Hudson River is the newest attraction in the Big Apple. And to be honest, I didn’t dare go out there onto the Skyscraper stairs at dizzy heights. The daughters, 20 and 14, had fun and I was overjoyed when both made it back down safely.
During my recent post-pandemic visit to New York, I focused more on the culinary adventure. Unfortunately, there is little that is new, Corona has hit the food and drink business extremely hard. Many small bars have closed, even the big ones have barely survived the last two years of lockdown. Gastro plastic huts everywhere on the sidewalks, so that the unvaccinated can also get something to eat – because inside the 2G rules are relentlessly checked (which unfortunately is not a matter of course for us). And all this has also affected the quality.
A diary of disappointments.
So you’re not reading a “What’s new” report, but a diary of disappointments. First and foremost, as always, it drives me across the Willamsburg Bridge to Brooklyn, to the city’s most famous steakhouse “Peter Luger”. I’ve been a regular there for 40 years at the wood-panelled parade eatery, which serves a T-Bone for two, three, or four people and a decent Napa Valley red. Lois Grünauer, uncle of the manager of the Viennese “Grünauer” tavern, was as friendly as ever at the table. But on the plate you can see the shortage of staff in the kitchen caused by the pandemic: the steak was only fried on one side, the potato pancakes more soft than crispy. Only the price has been raised again. All together the number one disappointment of the legends.
Next time I’ll stay in Manhattan and go to “Gallaghers”, where you can taste the hung steaks from the outside. Or to “Smith &Wollensky” for the highly acclaimed Colorado Rib Steak. And maybe most likely to “Keens” in Midtown. In addition to excellent steaks, this also has a lot of tradition (“since 1885”). President Roosevelt sat there, and the traces of smoke from his pipe can still be admired on the ceiling.
Tradition with goo.
Because we’re already on the tradition. No visit to New York is complete without a visit to “Katz’s”. The Jewish delicatessen plus the huge tavern is the best place to get a feel for the city’s culinary roots. A queue of about 80 people is waiting outside the door on Houston Street at lunchtime. A donation of 20 dollars to the doorman saves you having to queue. 20 minutes later the pastrami has been sliced onto the sandwich – at least a quarter of a kilo, which would in principle be enough for a family of four. As if Covid had never existed, 300 people are sitting elbow to elbow trying to get the flood of meat and free pickled cucumbers under control or to have the rest packed up. In relation to Corona, legend disappointment number two.
I hate it when food critics share their bad experiences with the pt audience – but sorry, it has to be. After the calorie bomb for lunch, it should be something light, something Asian. That “Time” even with its three Michelin stars, it is considered the best Japanese restaurant in New York and also the most expensive – depending on the menu, up to 600 dollars (without accompanying wine, of course, which takes you to the thousand mark). I can’t and don’t want to afford that, so I went to the more affordable attached second restaurant, to the “Time Bar”, dodged.
Well, what should I tell you? Everything is reasonably okay – from Spicy Tuna Carpaccio to Peking Duck Foie Gras Taco to Miso Cod and BBQ Ribs – but nothing special. By the way, not a single bottle on the expansive wine list is under $100. In a word: legend disappointment number three.
An insider tip and another disappointment.
I’d rather visit that “Blue Ribbon” around the corner from Columbus Circle, which sells similar stuff for half the price. Even the commercial one “Nobu”, whose meteoric rise to becoming the world’s favorite Japan chain started here in the Big Apple offers more and tastier (unmatched is the miso cod, cod steamed in miso). I can still reveal an insider tip, after all, there should be less scolding here and more praise: That “Sushi Nakazawa” at Central Park delivers absolute top quality at halfway reasonable prices. $120 for 21 courses of sushi -3 x salmon (ranging from hay smoked to soy marinated), 4 x tuna (ranging from lean to fatty), shrimp, crab, snapper, mackerel, yellowtail to eel, just perfect.
I have to add another disappointment: it has been around for years “Eleven Madison” ranked among the best restaurants in the world by Swiss chef David Humm. I fondly remember my first visit 15 years ago, where I tasted his “New American Cuisine”. I skipped it this time, because David Humm has switched to being totally vegan – without expensive caviar, lobster and Wagyu steak, but continues to charge more than 300 euros for cabbage and cauliflower, carrots and leeks. He explained at the outset that he absolutely wanted to achieve the same taste as before with meat and fish, now with vegetables. “It tastes like furniture polish,” said the New York Times. And my friend Urs, who lives in New York, said after the visit: “Not a single course that makes you want to come back!” Disappointment number four. Now it’s enough, now it only goes on positively.
Moments of pleasure in the Big Apple.
With a visit to the best food market in Manhattan, for example. Of the Chelsea Market am Hudson is open all day until midnight and houses everything that is culinary fun: “Lobster Place”, Oysters, shrimp, sushi, fish & chips and the best Manhattan clam chowder at the counter. “Very Fresh Noodles”, best chinese noodle soup. “Tings” with a jerk chicken from Jamaica. “The Song”, French kitchen. And even a Berlin currywurst is offered at a stand. Just stroll around and eat according to your appetite!
Italian cuisine in New York is of course missing from the list. Mafia movies of all kinds whetted the appetite for trattorias where backroom deals were done and dollar bills counted. I can prototype “Patsy’s” recommend, just off Broadway. Frank Sinatra had his own back entrance, and everyone from Al Pacino to Madonna was already in there. Or that “Carbone” in Greenwich Village, similar vibe, just bigger. But for me the best Italian food is served at Marea on Central Park South. Fusilli with octopus, pansotti with lobster, bucatini with shrimp – not only does it sound good, it is.
What’s really trending is Korean cuisine. So far underestimated in German-speaking countries, it’s really booming in New York. Fine Korean Dining at “Jungsik” or in “Atomix” requires a fat wallet, for beginners, a visit to the new one is particularly worthwhile “Sun” in Midtown. I enjoyed the seven courses from sea urchin caviar to porridge with fois gras to arctic char and duck breast.
PS: Are you in the Big Apple and even a bit homesick there? Then on to the best Austrian in New York, the Kurt Gutenbrunner im “Wallsé”. Kurt serves spaetzle, goose with red cabbage and Salzburg dumplings. You can’t get them any better at home.
Hans Mahr is on the road for more than half the year as a media consultant and reports here once a month about his experiences with eating, drinking and travelling. A collection of his videos can be found on the YouTube channel “The HANS”
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