Nanomaterials, located at the microscopic scale of 1 billionth of a meter, must be handled and dosed with caution, because they present risks to the health of living beings, including humans. Especially since these nanoparticles are insoluble or biopersistent. At a time when society is on the hunt for nanoparticles and endocrine disruptors, it would be unwise for nanomaterials to become a danger. In cosmetics, food or even air or water, “nanos” may have undesirable effects.
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“The risks associated with exposure to nanomaterials are varied. Most generally, these are inflammatory type effects, on cellular or animal models. Among workers, the main concern is the inhalation route, particularly for those manufacturing nanomaterials”explains Emmanuel Flahaut, doctor in materials science and research director at the CNRS.
Ten years ago, in the book Nanotoxics (Actes Sud, 2014), author Roger Lenglet claimed that nanos were as dangerous as asbestos, which causes lung cancer and mesothelioma. To prevent nanoparticles used as ultraviolet filters, dyes or even preservatives from going bad, several binding European regulations exist, such as Reach (authorization of chemical products before they are placed on the market), CLP (labeling of substances) or the regulation “relating to cosmetic products” (pre-market notification and prohibited substances).
No international harmonization
But are these safeguards really respected? Furthermore, there is no international harmonization yet. “In France, controls are carried out. If they remain insufficient, it is mainly due to a lack of means to implement them. To my knowledge, this essentially concerns the labeling obligation – mention “[nano]” for the ingredients concerned – in the food, biocide and cosmetic sectors”explains Emmanuel Flahaut.
It is the General Directorate for Consumer Affairs, Competition and Fraud Control (DGCCRF), in Bercy, which controls products containing nanomaterials. For example, she surveys sunscreen every year. Only five sunscreens are authorized in the form of nanomaterials, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
“Nine products (mainly makeup: highlighter, eye shadow, gloss, etc.) containing nanomaterials not authorized by the “cosmetics” regulation, in particular iron oxide and titanium dioxide, were voluntarily withdrawn from the market by the professionals concerned »assures the DGCCRF, after control of seventy professionals and analysis of thirty. This most often involves non-compliance with particle size limits or the absence of mandatory “nano” labeling. « The R-Nano records [créé en France en 2013 pour y lister les substances nanoparticulaires à déclarer obligatoirement] does not contain any information relating to hazards or exposure »regrets Emmanuel Flahaut.
