The critic Eric Asimov of the New York Times has recently published a mini guide on the best Riserves of Chianti Classico, the Tuscan denomination, famous throughout the world, which continues to grow in popularity. Above all, the critic appreciates the change that has occurred in the last twenty years, with a return to a pure and essential style, where the grape truly expresses itself. When tasting the Riserves, Asimov declared himself surprised by the extraordinary change that has occurred in the cellars in recent years, especially when comparing the Riserves to the basic Chianti Classico. “These aged wines were known for being very oaky and full-bodied,” he says. I would never have imagined 10 years ago that I would be extolling the virtues of Chianti Classico Riserva, but times have changed and here I am. I have long been a great fan of Chianti Classico. They still are, it is one of the most underrated and least appreciated wines in the world. Until now I didn’t really appreciate the Reserves, more structured, full-bodied and expensive than their brothers”. A style that suffocated the properties and elegance of Sangiovese. In fact, producers between the 90s and early 2000s tended to think that aged wines should be strong and powerful, with a prevalence of hints of oak and a lot of body, a practice widespread throughout the world, not just in Tuscany. In this way finesse and subtlety were often sacrificed for muscle, brute strength and ostentation. “Too often, it seemed, producers sought to justify the supposed superior status of Reserves by subjecting the wines to what they saw other expensive wines around the world receiving: aging in small new French oak barrels. This treatment gave the wines a striking shine that, in my opinion, overwhelmed the splendid purity of the Sangiovese grape.” And – he concludes – “Now producers are letting the splendid purity of the Sangiovese grape shine”.
You can see the full article here
Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva Lareale 2020 from Greve in Chianti
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 by Barberino Tavarnelle
Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva Sa’etta 2020 from Panzano
Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva Caprsino 2019 from Radda in Chianti
Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Bugialla 2021 from Radda in Chianti
Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2020 by Castelnuovo Berardenga
Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 from Radda in Chianti
Istine Chianti Classico Riserva Levigne 2020 from Radda in Chianti
Monteraponi Chianti Classico Riserva Il Campitello 2019 from Radda in Chianti
Stefania Tacconi
