© Christian Adam
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The 33 year old American climber Carlo Traversi has just clipped the relay of “Flex Luthor” a 9b located in Rifle in the United States and known to be one of the hardest routes in the country.
Indeed, released by Tommy Caldwell in 2003, she was considered the first 9a + in the USA. Remained virgin of any rise since, it was not until last month that its first rehearsal was signed, by Matty Hong. In view of the difficulty of the route, the latter proposed to reassess the rating at 9b, which would make it the first route of this level on the planet.
Carlo Traversi will succeed in making the cross after fifteen working sessions. Regarding the rating, he admits to following Matty’s suggestion and seems to agree with his proposal in 9b.
I have always been drawn to climbs which have both historical significance and a mysterious side. Nowadays, this combination is more and more difficult to find. In America, there is no more mysterious path than “Flex Luthor”. Tommy Caldwell made the first ascent in 2003, proposed it as America’s first 9a + and other than a few photos there is hardly any information on this route.
Over the years, rumors of broken takes have circulated, but I have always believed them to be untrue. This path has always attracted me, I wanted to discover the truth for myself. Finally, this year, I decided to focus on this path. I spent a month in the spring deciphering the movements but was slowed down in my work process by the wet holds and the lack of partners to ensure me. I returned at the beginning of October to continue my efforts. It has been a long month of hot and humid days, but finally, yesterday, I was able to clip the baton on one of my dream routes. It is definitely the most difficult route I have climbed so far. “
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