It is relatively easy to reach Ladakh, as Leh, the largest city, has its own airport, where several domestic flights depart daily, writes the recently published Turista Magazin, where the two Hungarian climbers reported on their adventures. From the airport, you can get to the center in almost no time by taxi. Ladak is also a curiosity for Indians, as it is completely different from other parts of the country. It has its own people and language, and its characteristic religion is Buddhism.
Here you don’t have to fear the nerve-wracking hustle and bustle of India. The federal territory, also called Little Tibet, is like an island of tranquility in the northernmost tip of the country. It is inhabited by kind, smiling, helpful people who speak English almost without exception, even if it is sometimes difficult to understand.
The two Hungarian climbers set off towards the mountains on the most popular trekking route available, the Markha Valley. Starting from the settlement of Skiu, this was the most reasonable route, which allowed for a gradual ascent and thus satisfactory acclimatization. They were looking for a less frequent, more serious challenge, which is how Dzo Jongo came into the picture.
The huge advantage of the popular trail is that the people living in the valley rent out a room to the wanderers who come by for some money, which includes a hot dinner, breakfast, and even a lunch package for the daily stage. This is the so-called “homestay” accommodation. In this way, walking, which is usually divided into five or six days, can be completed with minimal equipment.
There is only one compromise: no meat anywhere. Rice, lentils, boiled vegetables, and pasta are the food you can eat. For lunch, the small package without exception includes a boiled egg, a boiled potato, some kind of bread, accompanied by the head portion, chocolate and juice.
Photo: Milán Doszkoty, Krisztián Gazsó
Little traffic here or there, at the last “civilized” station compared to the end of the season, in the dining tent of Nimaling, about forty people gathered for dinner. Clients who mostly hire mountain guides set off for the imposing Kang Yatse II from here, whose pyramid-shaped peak profile absolutely dominates the skyline of the upper part of the Markha Valley.
By the way, Nimaling is an idyllic plateau at roughly the same height as the top of Mont Blanc, with grazing animals, babbling streams and a beautiful view. Only wolf attacks can cause trouble. Sometimes they target pack animals.
Breaking away from the paths worn by boots, on the sixth day of the tour, the two Hungarian hikers already scanned the terrain alone to find a suitable place for the tent, which will serve as a starting point for the summit climb. Finally, below the snow line, at around 5,300 meters, they found a sufficiently straight plateau, where a glacial stream offered an unlimited amount of liquid supply. Here we had to decide how to proceed.
Photo: Milán Doszkoty, Krisztián Gazsó
Although they had not originally planned an immediate attack, they decided to attack the summit the next day, avoiding setting up any high-altitude camps, following the “climb high, sleep low” principle.
On the much easier and lower side peak of Dzo Jongo (Dzo Jongo II., or Dzo Jongo East), a small group sometimes turns up, but there are hardly any entrepreneurs on the main peak. The real peak does not give itself easily. Without fixed ropes, it would be reckless to tackle the 60-degree ice wall leading to the northern saddle, and the snow-covered nose of the finale should not be underestimated either.
For safe climbing of the former, a few ice screws do not hurt, while for the latter it is advisable to be aware of the use of intermediates that can be installed in a powder-covered, i.e. firnish surface, as well as the methods of basic connection or synchronized climbing. This is not the best place for someone to try crampons for the first time or to practice self-restraint.
A gentle wind, pleasant temperature and impeccable snow conditions accompanied the climbers as they followed their trodden tracks higher and higher.
“With snail’s pace, panting constantly, I put one foot after the other, my partner who was attached to me walked parallel to me. This is how we got meter by meter closer to the rocky outcropping of the roof”
Krisztián Gazsó recalls.
Late in the afternoon, they reached the peak of the 6,280-meter Dzo Jongo, from where a breathtaking panorama opened up in front of them – with monsters such as Reponi Mallai Ri or Ibsti Kangri. In the distance, the Karakorum ranges appeared. In an oxygen-deficient state, they tried to enjoy the sight, knowing that it was not over yet: they had to get down the mountain. With due caution, they descended on the line we carved in the snow. As the air pressure increased, their movement became faster. When they got back to the base camp, they calculated: there was a 16-hour round trip behind them.
Photo: Milán Doszkoty, Krisztián Gazsó
Returning to Nimaling, there is a shorter route back to Leh: this one leads through the 5,260-meter Kongmaru La pass. The pass is clearly the crown of the hiking tour. Reaching it is a remarkable achievement even for those who do not come to climb the mountain. Even for the wealthy hiker who set off for the valley with half a dozen horses and a crew of four.
The next morning, in the snow, they pitched their tent on the pass. On the other side of the pass, they scrambled down a wild canyon, where the constant pain caused by the shoulder straps no longer mattered. Only the comfort of the accommodation floated before their eyes: a hot shower, a hearty dinner. And, of course, to give a sign of life to those at home, who didn’t know anything about them for a week and a half.
If someone decides to do it: the summit requires a permit, the valley tour does not
The Markha Valley can be completed independently, without the use of tour organizing agencies. Although it is part of the Hemis National Park, you basically do not need permits to complete it. Mountaineering, on the other hand, requires a permit, for which the IMF (Indian Mountaineering Foundation) requests the involvement of a separate agency.
The costs: Ladak is much cheaper than Hungary. Unfortunately, you can hardly use a bank or credit card, they are mostly only accepted by higher-end hotels or better money changers. A liter of bottled water costs 20-30 Indian rupees (100-120 forints), a one-dish meal in a restaurant costs 150-200 Indian rupees (700-900 forints), accommodation with meals costs 1500 Indian rupees (6750 forints).
The route can be enlarged on the hiking map:
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