February 23, 2021
11:26
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Our gastronomic critic tested the “drive-in” of Le Coq aux Champs, whose chef is none other than Christope Pauly, elected Chef of the year 2021 by Gault and Millau.
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Dallas, Texas, 1921. Along the Dallas-Fort-Worth freeway, the Pig Stand barbecue restaurant opens a sign where you can buy a “steak sandwich” without leaving your car. The drive-in was born and could go to conquer America. In Europe, 100 years later, you get behind the wheel to get a take-out menu in a gourmet restaurant.
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© Debby Termonia
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Sunday afternoon in Tinlot, a village a few kilometers from Huy, we line up in front of the service entrance of the restaurant Rooster in the Fields. Each in turn, the cars receive their order in paper bags, social distancing requires.
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The one who hides behind the stoves of this very local drive-in is none other than Christophe Pauly, one of the best chefs in Wallonia, elected Chef of the year 2021 by Gault et Millau in November. The famous gastronomic guide distinguished Christope Pauly in particular for the quality of her products, the refinement of her style and the perfect balance of her preparations.
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The 3-course take-out menu is a tribute to creation and seasonal products.
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Will these qualities be present in these paper bags? The chef has judiciously limited his drive-in to a minimum: his proposal is limited to a three-course menu (38 euros), renewed every week and according to the seasonal offer, one of his assets.
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The result is a pleasant surprise. The starter, a royal foie gras accompanied by an interesting garnish, is of great finesse. The recipe, which combines cream, eggs and foie gras, reads like a calorie bomb, but the chef avoids the pitfall of heaviness: the royal itself is all light. In addition, a bittersweet quince and apple gives it an additional note of pep, further refreshed by a delicious muscat sauce.
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© Idrisse Hidara
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The main course also proves the chef’s qualities as a sauce maker. Its smooth white butter is balanced by a beautiful acidity and creates a masterful link between the heart of roasted salmon, leek and shellfish.
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After these two hearty services, the lemon tart which concludes the meal also has the good taste of playing the card of freshness and finesse. The meringue seems to have been turned minute, and the touch of praline brings an additional note of flavor. Yes, we are indeed at the most gastronomic drive-in in the country!
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Address
The Rooster in the Fields, Phone. 085 / 51.20.14
Rue du Montys, 71, 4557 Soheit-Tinlot
When
The menu can be ordered by phone from Monday to Thursday. Pick-up takes place on Friday and Saturday, from 5.30 p.m. to 7 p.m., and Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. Payment in cash or by bank transfer.
Addition
76 euros for two covers.
We go back?
An original drive-in, excellent value for money and delicious and generous dishes: it would be a shame not to go back!
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