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Table talk: a heartwarming plov in the Bistro Kalinka – news from Bremen

Gastro critic Temi Tesfay in conversation with Dietmar Ertelt from Bistro Kalinka. (Frank Thomas Koch)

We make no claim to star cuisine ”, Dietmar Ertelt wants to transition into the serious part of the conversation, but then a touch of self-irony gets in the way:“ Except for the Red Star. ”First he falls into roaring giggles, then I and finally we both register with pleasure that the first few shorts are taking effect.

“Well,” remembers the owner and chef of the Russian bistro Kalinka, “we want to make honest cuisine. That people say it was delicious and the portion was good for the price. ”This is definitely true with our vegetarian borscht (3.90), which is also available as a beef variant (4.90). The soup made from beetroot, carrots, onions, celery, tomatoes, beans, white cabbage and potatoes, dutifully served with sour cream, is nice and hot, well spiced and very substantial.

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Luckily. Because when the 63-year-old hands me the small bowl of pickled cucumbers again, I get queasy. “My friends have always said that you only drink on double the leg,” I try to escape the inevitable, but even I can not do anything against the argumentative support from heaven. “God loves three,” countered Ertelt with a broad grin and, true to tradition, rubs the next piece of cucumber under his nose before moving on to the next one. Well then, Nastrovje.

Tried and recommended:It continues with a classic of Russian cuisine that has even made it onto the menu of haute cuisine: Bœuf Stroganoff (14.90). Sliced ​​beef with onions, pickles and mushrooms in a sour, creamy sauce. “I make them with tomato and mustard. Called Moscow Art, ”explains the graduate economist. The whole thing comes with mashed potatoes – at least in name. In terms of taste, the creamy side dish does not remind you of anything if it is not creamy. An impression that is unfortunately repeated with the Stroganoff. Here and there, so much salt is missing that I would like to chop a heavy chunk out of a potash plant to give the tender meat and smooth sauce a real definition. “I think it’s okay,” my host replies.

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A brief dissent, because with the closing Tuesday special (small portion for 7.50) we get back to the taste union: Plov. A rice pan that is known in various varieties from Russia to India and is best cooked on cast-iron fire kettles. Ertelt also prepares his lamb plov in such a pot, but – in the restaurant, it cannot be represented otherwise – on the stove.

The recipe of two kinds of lamb, first seared individually, later mixed with onions, garlic as well as turmeric, coriander, cumin and stewed in layers with carrots, barberries and raisins and cooked to the end with basmati instead of round grain rice, sounds special and is more like it to me Biryanis known. “My brother-in-law showed me that,” explains the German, who has been married to a Russian woman for over 25 years. A stunning mélange of sweet and sour notes with the meat aroma that has passed into the rice pulp creates a taste that warms the heart and soul. So I raise the glass for the fourth time: “To the grandiose plov.”

To person

Temi Tesfay is hungry for Bremen. On his weekly forays into the local gastronomic scene, he has already got to know many of the city’s kitchens, chefs and culinary treasures. Under the title “A bit of Bremen“He also writes a food blog.

Further information

Kalinka Russisches Bistro, Vor dem Steintor 208, 28203 Bremen, Phone: 01578/7558581, Monday to Saturday from 12.30 p.m. to 7 p.m., closed on Sundays. Barrier-free. www.kalinka-russischesbistro-bremen.de. Also on delivery.

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