nuno botelho
One of the reopenings in 2023 was Taberna Os Papagaios, by Joaquim Saragga Leal
A new generation of contemporary taverns/tascas emerged some time ago. Not the baiucas that appropriated the name a dozen years ago to serve broken eggs and tapas, which covered customers’ eyes with imported banalities. The movement emerged symbolically and inadvertently in 2015 at Taberna Sal Grosso, which unknowingly created a style. Correct application of cooking techniques suitable for dishes, snacks and new specialties, using good accessible products, by qualified and trained cooks. Joaquim Saragga Leal was the helmsman, shining with some very Portuguese cod pastries or the sophistication of duck liver baits, learned from chef Nuno Diniz — a teacher from a generation that shines in several places.
The rest is history! A wave of spaces that I call “tradivários” — traditional ones tuned like a Stradivarius — was emerging throughout Lisbon. The year 2023 seems to have been more stimulating in terms of good news in Porto than in the capital. Still, the return of Joaquim Saragga to lead Os Papagaios — after the great Taberna Santo Humberto in Évora — was great news (revealed here on Acepipe). The pioneer took the space that produced good cuisine in the world and gave it back the charisma of a tavern from half a century ago, but with contemporary techniques, flavor and rigor.
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2024-01-27 19:10:00
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