The surprise effect and social success are often two related phenomena. It is difficult to forget the paint dress sprayed directly on the body of the top model Bella Hadid on the Coperni catwalk in 2022: the surprise of the public – with their phones turned on – in seeing the paint transform into fabric live made the show one of the most viral of the last decade. Among the others on the virality podium is the Haute Couture fashion show by Maison Margiela spring/summer 2024 where, alongside the collection, the make-up of the models created by the make-up guru Pat McGrath amazed with special effects, creating an unprecedented social following. “My phone was on fire after this show. In my 35-plus years of beauty I have never, ever seen a reaction like this,” MacGrath confessed to Vogue after the show.
In particular, it was the make-up that created the greatest hype porcelain effect face hyper-reflective, to be removed as if it were a peel-off mask: to create it McGrath used various products, including a cucumber mask, mixed with water and sprayed on the skin with an airbrush but, pressed by thousands of requests on social media , promised to be working on a product that is easy to use at home even for non-professionals. A product that would fit perfectly into the so-called “stunt beauty” market, the “acrobatic” beauty that wants to surprise consumers with special effects, ideal for showing in videos on social media. On TikTok, in fact, increasingly the protagonists of beauty content are surprising cosmetics, such as make-up that changes color when in contact with the skin, textures that transform and lipsticks with strange shapes.
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Color-changing makeup
Last autumn, for example, the Pink is the new Black colour-changing blush powder by Essence went viral, a black blush that turns peachy pink when it comes into contact with the skin. “The black of the blush on the skin does nothing, then it is the red 27 or red 21 dye that turns the color to pink thanks to the reaction with the pH of the skin”, explains cosmetologist Giulia Penazzi. “The same happens with green lipsticks which do not color the lips but have colorless pigments which, in contact with the pH of the skin, become various shades of pink.” THE red 27 and red 21 dyes are known as ‘magic pigments’ because “in anhydrous conditions, i.e. without water, they are colorless or tending towards yellowish, when they then come into contact with water (i.e. also with skin hydration), they react with the pH of the skin triggering a chemical reaction which gives the pigment a color between pink and red”, continues the cosmetologist. In addition to blushes, the most popular pH reagent cosmetics are lipsticks and glosses: from the Fake Smile lip balm by VeraLab to the Lip Ceo by Mulac, up to the PH reagent stick with licorice from Bottega Verde, in the last year the offer of lip products that adapt the pigments to those of the mucous membranes has multiplied, thus giving very natural finishes (not surprisingly, pH make-up reagent is also called ‘adaptogen’).
Special effect lipsticks, blushes and lip liners
Among the latest releases, still within the “wow effect” lip products, there are also lipsticks with increasingly artistic shapes and designs. If until recently the most widespread engraving was the logo of the maison, today the decorations want to render the lipsticks small sculptures: an example of this are the new limited edition lipsticks for Valentine’s Day L’Absolu Rouge Drama Matte by Lancôme which, inspired by the French textile pattern known as houndstooth, are studded with dozens of velvety hearts. True Love Blush by AppleDoll also has the unusual shape of a heart, a solid blush that looks like a lipstick, with a heart-shaped stick. Paul and Joe, on the other hand, in addition to having engraved flowers on its lipsticks, also offers kitten-shaped sticks, Lipstick Treatment UV SPF 25, while among the most viral videos on TikTok of special effects make-up is the launch of the tattoo for the lip contour by Sacheu: it is a paint similar to nail polish with which to draw the lip contour and then remove as if it were a peel-off mask. Judging from the over two thousand comments received, the surprise effect was proportional to the curiosity to try the new texture.
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– 2024-03-30 02:08:18
