Reopened after eight months of work, renovated, restored, with new dining room furniture, an enlarged kitchen, this 1741 obviously worth rediscovering. The name reflects the year in which the Château des Rohan was founded, in which the Museum of Fine Arts of Strasbourg is opposite, just on the other side of the Ill. This historic two-story residence whose walls cannot be pushed back, within a listed area, was created by Cédric Moulot once, in place of the Fleur de Sel. Now taken over by the Salpa des Burrus group (the Crocodile, the Relais de la Poste, Yvonne, the Saint-Sépulcre and a few others), it continues on the same foundations, combining luxury decor, intimate atmosphere with about thirty seats maximum. and high quality creative food.
A powerful duo ensures the consistency of the house. In the kitchen, Jérémy Page, a native of England, raised in Périgord, who learned his lessons within the Robuchon group between the Atelier Saint-Germain, for nine years, and then London, before returning back to Paris, making sure with clarity on his lively, brilliant menu, playing with vegetables from the best producers in Alsace, seafood from Brittany, where his wife comes from, like the country with beautiful carnivorous feasts. On the dinner side, the director and chef Michael Wagner, loyal to the house since its inception, whom we knew at Arnsbourg in the Klein days, ensures an efficient and prompt service, as well as sensible wine advice.
Food here, under the guidance of both of them? Indeed a feast… which begins with a triple nod to the region, with the radish tartlet with borage butter, the crispy seabass with smoked eel and samphire, the whales and cumin, which we poured with a zero dose of Crémant 2020 from Domaine Achillée with slightly oxidized notes, a true “old champagne”. After that? colored carrots from Marthe Kehren, the vegetable queen of Kochersberg, with ginger and sorbet “like a carrot salad”, then Crimean black tomatoes from the same source, with seasonings of Cantabrian anchovies, oregano and basil.
We drink the excellent Pfoeller 2020 Dom Riesling above. Meyer-Fonné, moving on to sardines in escabèche, Marthe vegetables, potato velvet with Alsace saffron and thyme and rosemary focaccia on which the lively Léon smoked Pouilly from the Pabiot estate 2022 was still suave. This sea/garden marriage is still there with the Paimpol coconuts with cockles and lemon butter with seaweed and the Engelgarten by Jean-Michel Deiss in 2022 and this magnificent langoustine from Guilvinec with its Choron sauce with langoustine head juice and the Kritt Klevener from Marc Kreidenweiss 2022 in Andlau.
Another king piece? Lobster cooked on a Japanese barbecue, with Bigorre bacon and lobster juice with ginger and Kampot pepper mocked with grand cru Hengst de Josmeyer in 2018, finally this signature dish of the house: potatoes in emulsion with caviar from a Scandinavian house with its “vin jaune” sabayon from Jean-François Otter and the lovely Elsbourg 2017 from the same winemaker.
We add the carnivorous delights of Périgord cured pork with crispy skin and green beans and butter, as well as a full-bodied pork jus with the Les Terrasses de Paul Buecher 2020 pinot noir But there is no doubt is not the tour de force this Burgundy rabbit, with a good stuffing of herbs, smoked aubergine, chanterelles and a tasty juice, which takes a cheeky look at an animal that is often considered to big in contemporary food on which the rare and unusual syrah 2015 from Véronique and Thomas Muré in Rouffach does wonders with its notes of violet and its beautiful structure.
Then, it is worth looking at the large selection of cheeses selected and matured by Bernard Antony in Vieux Ferrette and a bit of the hat. Even if it’s time to move on to sweets. Crushed raspberries, meringue and sorbet and lemon-mint mousse as a seductive pre-sweet, creamy roasted peach, with verbena crème brûlée, peach brunoise with verbena and peach sorbet, accompanied by a large collection of late harvests from Domaine Rolly11 Gassman high 2 – delicious class.
The sweet treats, served on a separate trolley, are equally delicious and refined: black lemon macaron, nougat-style marshmallow, dried fruit beggar, Schaal house chocolate, Paris Brest-style choux. The miracle is that there is no pressure on this. Here’s good food in Strasbourg and traveler style that makes you, welllight stomach and clear palate.
2024-09-03 04:02:55
#Strasbourg #arrived
