The global woolen apparel market, notably for shawls and stoles, is facing headwinds. Exports from punjab, India, a major manufacturing hub for these items, have plummeted in recent years. The decline, attributed to a confluence of factors including the economic downturn, soaring living costs in Europe, and the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war, paints a bleak picture for the industry.
official figures reveal a stark reality. Exports of readymade garments, which include shawls and stoles, have shrunk from $121 million in 2014-15 to $90 million this fiscal year, representing a staggering 40% drop. This downward trend is particularly evident in Punjab,where Ludhiana and amritsar are renowned for their shawl manufacturing prowess. In 2022-23, exports reached a mere $60.43 million.
“While there have been occasional upticks in exports over the years, the overall trend is undeniably downwards,” remarked a shawl manufacturer from amritsar. “This has forced many of us to diversify our production, venturing into suits, sarees, or knitwear to stay afloat in this rapidly evolving market.”
Adding to the woes of exporters is the geopolitical turmoil in the Middle East. The recent conflict between Israel and its neighbors has considerably lengthened shipping routes to Europe, increasing travel time and adding to logistical challenges.Commerce and Industry Minister Piyush Goyal recently highlighted the impact of these extended routes via the Cape of Good Hope on global trade, including Indian exports.
the United Kingdom, Italy, Australia, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Greece, Sweden, Portugal, and belgium are among the primary importers of stoles produced in Amritsar and Ludhiana. Collectively, these cities manufacture shawls and stoles worth approximately rs 6,000 crore, with exports accounting for Rs 1,500 crore. Gaurav Jain, a shawl manufacturer based in Amritsar, noted that the United Arab Emirates is a major consumer of these items in the Gulf region. “Restoring pre-Covid export levels for shawls remains a distant aspiration due to ongoing international conflicts and recessionary pressures,” he lamented.
The Amritsar shawl industry, valued at Rs 2,500 crore, generates nearly Rs 500 crore in exports. Ludhiana, however, remains the dominant player, boasting an annual turnover exceeding Rs 3,500 crore, with exports contributing approximately Rs 1,000 crore.
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