The discovery of the Hyères islands begins on the deck of a boat, before even setting foot on the quay … Piercing the intense azure of the big blue, Porquerolles, Port-Cros and Île du Levant, a military zone with holes of a naturist enclave, rise above the waves, rocky in their setting of lush vegetation. Soon, it is the warm smell of the scrub and the pine forest that envelops you with delight, carried by the sea breeze. In the “Golden Islands”, no car. In Port-Cros, even the use of bicycles is banned.
Nature is queen. Created in 1963 around Port-Cros, then extended in 2012 to Porquerolles, the heart of the National Park occupies 1,700 ha of land and 2,900 ha of protected marine areas. A preserved natural haven, the treasures of which we can best savor when the summer crowds are gone, under the summer sun which can last until the first days of November. When the Mistral does not come to sow trouble, the temperature of the translucent waters is still mild during this period, the sand is still hot, and the beaches have regained a certain serenity.
Porquerolles is the largest and best known of these three islands. Around its pretty eponymous village, it offers two coasts with radically opposite faces. A crenellated and wild coast to the south, paradisiacal sandy beaches to the north.
In the center, follow one another in a gentle tranquility of pine forests, vineyards, olive groves. A setting that can be discovered on foot or by mountain bike. Until October, the tourist office also offers advantageous packs (boat + mountain bike or electric bike) from € 33.50. hyeres-tourisme.com
Smaller, Port-Cros claims its wild aspect and only tolerates pedestrians. There again, many routes allow you to take advantage of the richness of its flora and fauna.
Finally, the Ile du Levant plays the card of returning to its roots, establishing itself for many years as a paradise for naturists. Many shuttles and excursions offer to visit the archipelago in one day, however we advise you to spend at least one night there, to be able to fully explore it and savor the tranquility of the evenings, once the boats have left.
When to visit Porquerolles and Port-Cros?
In summer, activity is in full swing and the water temperature is ideal for swimming. This year 2020 in particular, attendance has exploded. For more tranquility and a milder climate, prefer May-June and September-October. From November, many activities are at half mast, but the islands are still accessible and, in Porquerolles in particular, there is always at least one restaurant and one hotel open.
An interesting off-season package is also offered by the Tourist Office and its partners: boat + restaurant + mountain bike, from € 39 per person. One night at the hotel is optional (destination-porquerolles.com).
How to get to Porquerolles and Port-Cros, and where to take the boat?
The easiest : leave Hyères, for a crossing that sometimes offers the chance to meet dolphins! Boat transport is provided by shipping company TLV TVM (tel: 04 94 58 21 81, tlv-tvm.com).
Porquerolles : departure from the Tour Fondue pier which is located on the Giens peninsula with some free car parks nearby. Possibility of crossing with his bike. Connections approximately every half hour, last departure 6 p.m., last return 6.30 p.m. Reduced frequency from September 28 with approximately one trip every hour. Last departure 6 p.m., last return 6:20 p.m. (then 5.30 p.m. from 25/10.). Duration of the crossing: less than 20 min.
Port-Cros: departure from the port of Hyères. Round trip prices: adults: € 28.10; reduced: € 16.80. About four trips per day in season then a single daily connection in the off-season. Departure 9:15 a.m., return 5 p.m. then 4:30 p.m. from 28/09. No connection on Tuesdays and Thursdays from October. Duration of the crossing: 35 min or more depending on the boat.
Departures are possible for the two islands from other municipalities in the Var:
La Londe, until the end of October (bateliersdelacotedazur.com); Bormes-les-Mimosas, until the end of September (latitudeverte.fr); Bandol, until the end of October (atlantide1.com); Sanary-sur-Mer, until the end of September (croixdusud5.com); Toulon, until October 4 ( bateliersdelacotedazur.com); Le Lavandou, all year round (vedettesilesdor.fr); Saint-Tropez, Sainte-Maxime, les Issambres, until September 25 (bateauxverts.com).
Water taxis allow personalized crossings all year round, with the Pelican companies (bateaux-taxi.com) and Sea Space (espacemer.fr).
How to get from Porquerolles to Port-Cros?
The Golden Islands Vedettes, vedettesilesdor.fr ; Phone. : 04 94 71 01 02. Journey: about 45 minutes, one way: 16 € 80, round trip: 24 € 20). Links also with Le Levant (until September 25).
THEWhere to sleep in Porquerolles?
Hotel Les Mèdes
Between La Courtade beach and the village, large private garden, waterfall, solarium, restaurant. Rooms and apartments. Night from 199 €.
Hotel Les Mèdes, 2, rue de la Douane, Île de Porquerolles, 83400 Hyères. Phone. : 04 94 12 41 24.
Mas Langoustier
4 * establishment, belonging since 1912 to the former owner family of the island. Away, in the heart of a 50 hectare park. Very comfortable rooms, wellness area, refined restaurants, swimming pool. Half board from € 500.
Hotel Le Mas du Langoustier, Langoustier path, Porquerolles island, 83400 Hyères; Phone. : 04 94 58 30 09.
THEWhere to sleep in Port-Cros?
Hotel le Manoir
Bastide with old-fashioned charm built in 1840, former home of the owners of the island. Park in the shade of hundred-year-old eucalyptus trees. Private rooms and maisonettes, swimming pool, restaurant with sea view. From 305 €.
Hotel Le Manoir, island of Port-Cros, 83400 Hyères. Phone. : 04 94 05 90 52.
Provençal Hostellerie
On the port, simple and comfortable rooms, fish restaurant and Provencal cuisine, friendly atmosphere. From 175 €.
Provençal Hostellerie, island of Port-Cros, 83400 island of Port-Cros. Phone. : 04 94 05 90 43.
Good addresses
Restaurant l’Oustaou Porquerolles
Bistro atmosphere, terraces on the village square. Phone. : 04 94 58 30 13. oustaou.com
Restaurant La Trinquette Port-Cros
Directly on the port, grilled fish specialties. Phone. 04 94 05 93 75. restaurant-trinquette-port-cros.fr
Gambaro Le Levant Restaurant
Fish specialties, terrace with sea view. 1918 Chemin de la Perspective. Phone. : 04 94 05 90 69. legambaro.com
Coco Frio Porquerolles ice cream
French artisanal ice cream label. Manufacturing workshop on the island, ice creams and sorbets. 70 fragrances. Phone. : 04 94 58 35 13. Rue de la Ferme, village.
Sabine’s Workshop
Workshop-shop, watercolors, lithographs, Ali Baba’s cave, made in Porquerolles. 66, rue Joseph Pellegrino, Porquerolles. Phone. : 06 84.96 93 41. atelierdesabine.com
HYÈRES TOURIST OFFICE FOR THE GOLDEN ISLANDS
Porquerolles office – Main wharf. Phone. : 04 94 58 33 76. hyeres-tourisme.com
PORT-CROS NATIONAL PARK
Maison du Parc Port Cros, next to the pier. Phone. 04 94 01 40 70; Maison du Parc Porquerolles, exit from the village, Tel: 04 94 58 07 24. portcros-parcnational.fr
– .