After New York, London and Milan (until September 25), it’s Paris’ turn to launch its fashion week. 107 houses present their spring-summer 2024 women’s ready-to-wear, during 67 fashion shows and 40 presentations, from September 25 to October 3, 2023.
For the spring-summer 2024 season, many houses are present on the Paris Fashion Week calendar feminine where changes of designers occur such as Chloé, Alexander McQueen, Carven, Ann Demeulemeester and AZ Factory. The Italian house Marni and the American Peter Do are among the new entrants to the official calendar while Carven, Maison Margiela and Mugler are back.
The first day of the week is dedicated, as tradition dictates, to young creation: the Belgian stylist Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, who makes conceptual fashion for an avant-garde woman, opens the ball before Victor Weinsanto, a former classical dancer trained by Jean Paul Gaultier before launching his brand in 2020 with shows “performance”. At the end of the day, the Pierre Cardin house, which, under the leadership of his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, returned to the calendar in March after 25 years of absence, presents a fashion show, in the midst of a dispute over the couturier’s succession died in 2020. This is the subject of an investigation and complaints filed by the family of the creator and his great-nephew, who succeeded him.
Among the questions: what will Olivier Rousteing present on the catwalk for Balmain after his collection was stolen 10 days before his show? He maintained the parade despite the theft of 50 pieces intended for the show:
We will find on the Parisian catwalks, the naked trend, with transparency and short, spotted at London Fashion Week or those of Milan Fashion Week: “quiet luxury”, a return to the sobriety of luxury and, more surprisingly, warm or even winter clothing is apparently incompatible with global warming.
Final fashion show by Gabriela Hearst for Chloé and Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen
“I feel proud and happy of the work accomplished at Chloé and above all to leave the message that a woman can do anything, while having fun”, indicated the American-Uruguayan designer, who had held the position of artistic director since 2020, when announcing her departure. For her first collection at Chloé in 2021, Gabriela Hearst bet on sustainable fashion by eliminating synthetic virgin fibers – such as polyester or artificial cellulose fibers – and sourcing recycled, reused and organic denim. What will she offer for her latest collection presented on September 28?
The British house Alexander McQueen and its artistic director Sarah Burton announced “the end of their collaboration” started more than 20 years ago. The 49-year-old British designer took over the reins of the Alexander McQueen house in 2010 after the suicide of its founder Lee Alexander McQueen, her mentor with whom she had worked for more than 14 years. His latest collection will be presented on September 30. Sarah Burton “continued Lee’s legacy, his attention to detail and his unique vision, while adding his personal and highly creative touch“, greeted François-Henri Pinault. His imprint “will leave an indelible mark”with Gianfilippo Testa, CEO of Alexander McQueen.
What will Olivier Rousteing present for Balmain?
Can we redo a stolen collection 10 days before a show? Olivier Rousteing, the creator of Balmain, will give the answer on the catwalks on September 27. The fashion show is being held despite the theft of 50 pieces intended for the show: the van which transported them from Roissy airport to the headquarters of the Parisian house on September 16 was stopped by armed individuals who fled with the vehicle. “My team and I have worked very hard. We will work even harder, day and night, as will our suppliers, but this is so disrespectful. I wanted to share this with you to remind you to never take anything for granted.” , wrote Olivier Rousteing on Instagram.
An investigation has been opened. A case “exceptional” given the number of pieces stolen, Serge Carreira, lecturer at Sciences Po, specialist in fashion and luxury, told AFP, while believing that it was realistic to redo the collection between now and the show. The stolen models are prototypes and existing patterns would allow the clothes to be remade. “Balmain has workshops, they have subcontractors, a network of craftsmen. By mobilizing the maximum of forces, it is possible to achieve this,” he pointed out.
Louise Trotter’s first podium at Carven, September 30
“I feel honored to write a new chapter for Carven: a young French house which for me embodies a spirit of freedom, joy and confident femininity. I look forward to respecting Madame Carven’s legacy by making clothes of a new simplicity that are both useful and beautiful, while being kind to people and the environment”declared the former designer of Joseph and Lacoste, who was president of the jury of the International Fashion Festival in Hyères.
“Louise Trotter is the ideal candidate to revive the Carven house” with her understanding of “what luxury and sportswear mean today”underlined Shawna Tao, CEO of Carven.
Carven was founded by Marie-Louise Carven in 1945 in Paris. Being small and having difficulty dressing herself, she created clothes for women like her from modest textiles such as cotton decorated with English embroidery. In 1950, with corset maker Rose Lebigeot, Marie-Louise Carven invented the balconette. She died in 2015, aged 105. In 2018, Carven was bought by Icicle Group, a Chinese fashion company founded in 1997 in Shanghai and which became ICCF (Icicle Carven China France) in 2020, but is struggling to find its place in today’s landscape.
First podium for Stefano Gallici at Ann Demeulemeester, September 30
The Frenchman Ludovic de Saint Sernin, creator of ultra-sexy and gender-neutral fashion, was replaced six months after his appointment and after presenting a single collection for the house. Stefano Gallici, who has worked for the brand since 2020 as creative director, replaces him. After studying at the IUAV University of Venice, specializing in architecture, he started his career in Antwerp and worked with the Antonioli group, which bought the Belgian brand in 2020. Part of the famous Antwerp Six, in 2013, the designer sold her eponymous house founded in 1985.
“Stefano (Gallici) immediately demonstrated strong creativity and a clear vision for Ann Demeulemeester. He represents the DNA of the forward-looking brand”, said Claudio Antonioli, Italian owner of the Belgian fashion house. His first home collection, known for its minimalist black and white aesthetic, is presented on September 30.
First podium for Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin at AZ Factory, October 2
Founded in 2020 by Alber Elbaz, the AZ Factory label has evolved into a multidisciplinary platform supporting creation and young talents. Each season, the studio entrusted artistic direction to creators called “amigos” (friends). For spring-summer 2024, AZ Factory announced that the next collaboration will be with Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin, the duo selected by Alber Elbaz himself from the beginning, who has collaborated with all Amigos so far. AZ Factory by Them is a celebration of AZ Factory’s roots and its future.
Peter Movrin, Mauro Grimaldi et Norman René Devera (AZ Factory)
During these two years, AZ Factory identified creators of different origins, genders, cultures and ages where the only common elements were the “smart fashion that cares » and real talent. Sometimes you just decide to stay home and enjoy the wonderful family you belong to. Love brings love.
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