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Our fashion week diary, from New York to London


New York

Thursday 8th September

After a few seasons of New York fashion down time, during which, without talking about Covid-19, the great American designers had deserted the calendar of fashion shows, everyone expected a great reunion that would have meant: “Yes, New York is back. “ He counted without Elizabeth II, whose death, on September 8, stole the show from all those who thought it would be talked about. Her Majesty even managed to make Kim Kardashian’s buttocks forget the background of the flag Stars and Stripes on the cover of the magazine Interview, appeared two days earlier.

The death of the British sovereign therefore marked the conversations at the welcome cocktail party held, to launch the fashion week, by the mayor of New York, Eric Adams, alongside Anna Wintour (Vogue USA) and Steven Kolb, head of the Council for Fashion Designers of America, the American fashion federation. Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger or Tory Burch had made the trip, not wanting to miss the long-awaited return. Alas. It was between Balmoral and London that the story unfolded. And on Instagram, despite some posts showing guests with champagne in hand, only the figure of the deceased and the deluge of freebies survived.

Friday 9 September

Four o’clock. Proenza Schouler really opens the ball. Head to the Hall of Lights, located in the former Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank building, a Beaux-Arts-style model building. Water flows along the walls: the videos are projected into the space, giving guests the impression of being in the middle of a waterfall. A parable of the return to life for the duo at the helm of the brand, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, who have held the course for twenty years. With always this good mix of timeless pieces and the latest trends.

Twenty hours. The atmosphere is less studious, on the 34And Street, 311 West. The crowd is hysterical, the traffic in the neighborhood cut off. It is the anniversary of the Fendi Baguette bag: 25 years is something to celebrate. Kim Jones, artistic director of the women’s collections of the Italian brand, invited Marc Jacobs to present with him about fifty looks in homage to the it-bag of the 2000s designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi and made famous by the sitcom Sex and city – in particular from the character of Carrie Bradshaw, played by Sarah Jessica Parker (sitting, that evening, in the front row next to Kim Kardashian).

Model Bella Hadid during the Proenza Schouler fashion show.

Fans wait, huddled together, hoping to catch a glimpse of a celebrity stepping out of her sedan … Jocelyne Wildenstein, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and tiktokeurs known only to their subscribers have been invited to the show. For the American press, we have to go back to 2015 and Kanye West’s first Yeezy show for Adidas to see so many stars gathered for a fashion event in the city. In the morning all the guests received a baguette (bread) wrapped in kraft paper with the “Fendi” logo.

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