Posted Apr 7, 2023, 6:00 AMUpdated on Apr 7, 2023 at 6:05 am
The symbol of the ancients was crystal clear. No doubt it was imbued with Christian spirituality in those distant centuries when monks and churchmen cleared the golden woods of the Coast, planted and cultivated pinots and chardonnays in unequaled places. In residence, intact, the spirit: one does not enter a Burgundian enclosure without ceremony. Also, the famous surrounded vines are not only fortified with dry stone walls. Intersecting a section, often, rises, the size of a simple door, a stone arch on the lintel of which the name of the enclosure can be read as a consecration. Neither gate nor leaf, a triumphal arch. Les Lambrays, La Pucelle have their own and, when it’s not a clos, it’s sometimes a climate. With its white spots pricking the gray limestone, this one has everything of an ancient portal. Four steps precede it and, on the top stone, one can read, in old-fashioned carved letters, Nuiton-Beaunoy, surname surmounted by coats of arms, two eagles defending a shaft.
In a land of tradition, nothing is more proven than redesigning something new with something old. Nuiton-Beaunoy is not an estate resulting from the union of a family from the Côte de Nuits with another from the Côte de Beaune. It is to be mistaken but it is a brand born, literally, in 2009, from the imagination of the Associated Winegrowers, powerful but last cooperative of the Côte d’Or. Formed in 1957, it now stretches from north to south of Burgundy, uniting 80 winegrowers and 350 hectares, many of which are premier and grand crus. And, even, a closed in monopoly in Gevrey-Chambertin, the Chapter, at the foot of the Saint-Aignan church. Under the Nuiton-Beaunoy brand, the bottles have been redesigned, the labels reworked, to marry the opulent codes and colors of the clothes of the greats of Burgundy. They wear the costume without blushing, so much the collection of our winegrower associates has allure. In 2018, the centerpiece, the Clos du Chapitre, already impresses with the brilliance of its brilliance and the purity of its aromas. However, in 2016, the twelve ares of the place called Les Chaffots in Morey-Saint-Denis, produced a chiselled, saline, almost iodized wine. A luminous outline of this climate of Nights.
Nuiton-Beaunoy, Clos du Chapitre, gevrey-chambertin 2018, €69.50, “Les Chaffots”, morey-saint-denis 2016, €43. nuiton-beaunoy.fr