New York: the glory of Gabriel Kreuther

Gabriel Kreuther © GP

Faithful to the Alsace of his origins, Gabriel Kreuther, native of Niederschaeffolsheim (Bas Rhin). who was Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s second in command for a long time after having worked in Colmar with Patrick Fulgraff at the Fer Rouge, in Switzerland with Bernard Ravet at the Ermitage of Vufflens-le-Château and in the Black Forest with Franz Keller, delivers a brilliant score which gives him worth two stars facing Bryant Square Park.

Amuse-bouche © GP

All New York gourmands delight at home, in a vast chic and contemporary decor, with its vast benches, its rediscovered beams which evoke Alsace, its large bar, an exceptional foie gras with gewurztraminer jelly with its chutney with berawecka fruit and brioche toast. The meal begins with a tasting of savory kougelhopf, without forgetting, as pleasant appetizers, squash ravioli, pear fruit paste and frozen maple gel, meringue molé and potato pancake.

Foie gras and. brioche © GP

Exploding ! But then the most surprising thing comes. Its fine filo pastry tart, pastilla style, with sauerkraut and sturgeon, with its airy sabayon and grains of beluga caviar, is a pure marvel. We also love diving scallops from Massachusetts, caught on the East Coast of the USA, cooked back and forth, with celeriac, shellfish broth and black truffle miso sauce.

Sturgeon tart, sauerkraut © GP

Scallops, celery and truffle © GP

A ban again for the immense choice of wines from everywhere with its beautiful selection by the glass (chardonnay The Ojai Vineyard, Rancho Ontiveros, Santa Maria 2022, volnay 2018 from Pierrick Bouley, pinot noir from the Bergström estate, “Cumberland Reserve” from the Willamette Valley 2021), as well as New Zealand venison, tender as a carnivorous dream, served with brown butter mashed potatoes, braised salsify and juniper jus.

Venison with grand veneur sauce © GP

But the party doesn’t stop at the savory side. And we do a spell, in fine, with chocolate truffle with almond and sesame praline, chocolate mousse and milk ice cream, as well as superb sweets, chocolates and homemade ganaches. Excellent service, friendly, precise, professional and very quickly complicit.