New York: Fashion Week New York – between corona and climate rebellion

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The bad mood had already announced weeks ago when several regular New York designers announced that they would not show in New York: Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Jeremy Scott. Tom Ford’s retreat weighed heaviest. Ford, who traditionally ushers in fashion week with champagne, served by the world’s most beautiful waiters, showed its new collection in Los Angeles, two days before the Oscars, to get closer to its Hollywood clientele to be. Now Ford is not just any designer, but since January 2020 the chairman of the “Council of Fashion Designers of America”. The stated goal: to re-establish New York Fashion Week as a must in the show calendar. It’s just stupid if the boss himself doesn’t take duty so seriously and prefers to show it to guests like Jon Hamm, Jeff Bezos or Demi Moore.

The consequences of the coronavirus

What was also missing in New York: really new ideas or a strong celebrity moment like Rihanna’s Fenty lingerie show last season. And a worthy shopping alternative to the historic Barneys luxury department store, which is about to close and whose ketchup-red sale posters bring tears to the eyes of many a fashion fan. Even in New York you don’t earn as much money with designer fashion as you used to, there is talk of a “retail apocalypse” that is making it difficult for the local fashion scene. The lack of Chinese tourists should only increase the problem.

Chinese editors, buyers and celebrities were also not allowed to travel to Fashion Week in New York due to travel restrictions due to the corona virus. At an event organized by the Italian jeweler Bulgari, the star of a new campaign, the Chinese actor Kris Wu, was hooked up to greet the guests via Skype. “This situation shows how much we are connected to everyone in today’s world,” said Michael Kors at a preview of his collection. Kors’ company is part of Capri Holdings, a group with brands like Versace and Jimmy Choo, which claims to have closed 150 out of 225 stores in China.

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Hardly anyone dealt with current crises on the catwalk, but the topic of sustainability is still popular. Gabriela Hearst sewed coats and jackets from old carpets and pattern parts and gave away sleeping masks made from cashmere scraps. At Eckhaus Latta, every model wore second-hand shoes from Prada or Gucci, which can be bought via the resale platform The RealReal. Michael Kors designed a black, sparkling cape dress made from recycled polyester and viscose, embroidered with sequins from recycled plastic bottles. The environmental activists from Extinction Rebellion, who held guerrilla fashion shows with homemade clothing in New York to protest against the wastage of resources in the industry, were less convinced of this.

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Luxury designers prefer to propose another, less radical solution to the consumer problem: away from streetwear and logo sweatshirts, towards conservative, elegant items whose quality and elegance should last for several seasons. The Victorian-looking velvet jackets with stand-up collars by Tory Burch, a suede dress with decorative sewing by Longchamp, a coat by Sies Marjan, the material of which consists of intertwined root systems.

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At Marc Jacobs, the models either looked like boarding school students or like Betty Draper doubles. On the catwalk they were surrounded by dancers who danced like stubborn ballerinas, sometimes in formation, sometimes in chaotic confusion, writhing and twitching to chopped up violin music in Pina-Bausch-style. Coach eschewed the all sorts of fringes and rivets from past collections and concentrated on pleasantly simple combinations of coats with knee-length skirts and cardigans. The best part was worn by punk rock matriarch Debbie Harry, who turned up for a surprise appearance at the end of the show: a cream-colored leather coat, printed with motifs by the artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, with whose foundation the label cooperated this season.

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Brands like Coach represent the qualities for which American labels are known and valued: good-humored, wearable clothing at prices that are not too absurd, which are practical and still signal that they value a well-thought-out look. Veronica Beard has also been working according to this credo for ten years now, the anniversary was celebrated with a first fashion show. Checkered blazers, denim overalls, and shearling bombers aren’t groundbreaking ideas shaping fashion discourse, but they do form the foundation of a well-organized wardrobe.

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Those who want to dare to go to Proenza Schouler, who meanwhile ensure that the art-loving New Yorker no longer mourns her “Old Céline”. “It’s great for us that some of the big labels aren’t there this season. That way we get more attention, ”said one half of the designer duo Lazaro Hernandez in an interview two days after the show. The designs absolutely deserve attention: oversize jackets that reveal bare shoulders, skin-tight poppy overknees, figure-hugging, asymmetrical knitted dresses.

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Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough still look like two unshaven Parson’s students, but at 42 they are now part of the establishment. When they launched their first collection in 2002, Barneys bought every item, giving the label its breakthrough. The new generation of young New York designers can no longer rely on the influence of traditional fashion retailers. It doesn’t have to either. Brands like Khaite and Area, which are among the most acclaimed newcomers in New York, find their customers via Instagram or by initiating discourses on culturally relevant topics.

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Khaite founder Catherine Holstein made a viral moment when actress Katie Holmes was photographed wearing a label’s cashmere bra in 2019. It is their voluminous blouses, broad-shouldered blazers and boots with zebra patterns that young women have high on their wish lists today. Area, on the other hand, brings African craftsmanship together with modern club culture and inspires with tops made of artfully intertwined glitter chains, heart-shaped bustier dresses and blazers that look like wearable silhouettes. And all of this without the help of Tom Ford.

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