Translated by
Cecile Herrero
Published on
Feb 8 2024
New York Fashion Week opens this Thursday, deprived of many powerful and influential designers, but with a new generation of talent, many of them from minorities, ready to take up the style torch in the American capital of the fashion.
See the showSergio Hudson – Spring-Summer2024 – Womenswear – New York – © Launchmetrics
The season will be devoid of Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Narcisco Rodriguez, Diane Von Furstenberg, Vera Wang and Marc Jacobs, although, in the latter case, Marc Jacobs showed last week outside of the calendar.
That said, heavyweights like Michael Kors and Coach are present. Just like Tommy Hilfiger, whose rise from small business to global mega-brand is the very definition of the American dream. Tommy Hilfiger makes a welcome return this season, to one of the country’s most iconic venues, the Oyster Bar inside Grand Central Station. Meet under the clock.
The city will also welcome one of France’s most unique talents, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who will make his New York debut in the Starrett-Lehigh building, a gigantic brick and glass building so large that its elevators can transport trucks large size. It has hosted numerous fashion shows, including those of Wiederhoeft, Bach Mai, Area and Sergio Hudson.
The latter is one of a series of powerful ethnic minority designers who have brilliantly shaken up the New York design scene. Other important names of this generation include Raul Lopez de Luar, winner of the CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year award, whose next show will be held in a former factory located in a still industrial neighborhood of Williamsburg, or Willy Chavarria, who will show not far away, in a warehouse in Greenpoint.
Others in this group include Romeo Hunte, master of nightclub glamor and American luxury, who has dressed the likes of Lewis Hamilton, Idris Elba, Laverne Cox, James Harden, Maluma, Dwyane Wade , Jennifer Hudson, Hailey Bieber and former first lady, Michelle Obama. And then there’s LaQuan Smith, who channels elements of Versace and Cavalli, although it’s his own style. Another name to watch is Bishme Cromartie, a Baltimore, Maryland-born talent who combines cropped hairstyles, upbeat glamor and sexy silhouettes, and will be showing at the Ritz Carlton.
See the Khaite show – Spring-Summer2024 – Womenswear – New York – © Launchmetrics
A total of 72 shows – including eight purely men’s shows – will appear on the official calendar of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the industry’s governing body, along with 19 additional presentations and eight digital editions.
Karl Lagerfeld was known for never allowing other designers to attend his shows, on the grounds that they would likely steal some of his ideas. American stylists, more collegial, often attend in large numbers the events organized by each other.
So expect Marc Jacobs – who staged a surreal show in early February where models in bouffant wigs appeared dwarfed beneath giant, oversized office furniture – to attend Anna’s latest show Sui, another former “grungista”. Anna Sui’s fashion shows are small but, for the past few seasons, they have been unmissable. And given her penchant for literature, it’s no surprise that Anna Sui’s next venue is America’s most famous bookstore, The Strand, on Broadway.
The season begins Thursday evening with a CFDA cocktail party in Tribeca and concludes Wednesday evening with Thom Browne, the current chairman of the CFDA board of directors.
In some ways, New York’s unique architecture, seaside location and gigantic city vistas are integral to the parade aesthetic and the city’s special energy. This energy is transmitted to everyone who roams the city, from chic clubs like The Harmonie in Central Park for Christian Cowan to the docks of the Hudson River, as for Khaite, probably the hottest fashion brand in America today .
No New York fashion “tour of duty” is complete without a runway show in a skyscraper. This season, Wes Gordon, the designer of Carolina Herrera, invited his guests to the 41st floor of a tower located on Maiden Lane, on the riverfront, to better watch his models parade in front of the morning glory of New York Bay .
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2024-02-08 00:37:21
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