The first city to start fashion festivities, New York welcomed its share of designers for fashion week, which took place from February 9 to 15. From the “no pants” of Michael Kors to the dark romanticism of Rodarte, trends have followed one another and some have definitely asserted themselves.
The big names in American fashion and young talents met in New York to present their fall-winter 22/23 stylistic visions. If the pandemic had somewhat disturbed the organization of this particular week, it seems that everything is back to normal and we were impatiently waiting to discover the latest creations. From Thom Brown to Proenza Schouler via Christian Siriano, a summary of the highlights of this New York season.
Controlled elegance for the Michael Kors Collection
Lighter silhouettes, excess fringe, neutral colors and a powerful look, the designer presented his fall-winter 22/23 collection in a decor somewhere between a futuristic universe and a natural atmosphere (metal walkways coexisting with a wooded landscape). The look was structured, the necklines dizzying, the materials vaporous and the sexyness specific to Michael Kors still at its peak. We will especially remember the return of the full animal look, the imposing necklaces and the “No pants”, THE big trend of these New York catwalks, notably established by the looks of Kendall and Kylie Jenner.
Futuristic tailoring at Thom Brown
Highly anticipated, the fashion show of the new president of the CFDA kept its promises and presented looks that were rarely half-measured, as the theme of passing time was at the heart of its inspiration. We saw silhouettes with futuristic contours and strange details such as the models’ XXL nails in the style of extraterrestrial claws, headgear in the version of Saturn’s rings or even coats with disproportionate shoulders. An interpretation of tailoring specific to the designer who took advantage of this show organized on February 14 to celebrate love from every angle.
Colors and clichés at Christian Siriano
The celebrities were at the rendezvous in the front row of the Christian Siriano show. Lindsay Lohan or Quinta Brunson admired the colorful outfits of the American designer specializing in inclusiveness. If her last wedding parade had dazzled the public, this autumn-winter collection nevertheless leaves a slight bitter taste. Indeed, some saw in it an unsuccessful adaptation of the Schiaparelli style, or even a certain plagiarism lacking in sophistication. Far from the minimalist trend, the young winner of “Runway project” nevertheless dares to shake up the codes and offers fashion for everyone, far from the sometimes fixed standards of the industry.
Frank and sober allure at Proenza Schouler
Well known to fashion aficionados and editors, the designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at the head of Proenza Schouler have delivered a collection this season imbued with sobriety but always with an anthology of avant-garde details. We will remember the return to the New York catwalks of the actress and great friend of the brand, Chloé Sevigny, who also opened the show. As for strong pieces, we notice the long faded dresses in midnight blue velvet but also the nonchalantly belted suit jackets, accentuating a frank and determined look. Powerful.
Dark score at Rodarte
Obscure, mystical and whimsical. This is what would best describe the parade of the sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Far from the traditional romanticism that characterizes them, the inspiration was intended to be darker in the Wednesday way in the Addams family. The sleeves graze the ground, the fabrics are openwork or even lacerated and the beauty of the models gives pride of place to the smoky eyes and the Black Swann-inspired eyeliner. If the first looks impressed by their blackness, the color has however gradually affixed to close-fitting jumpsuits, sequined capes and long dresses with retro prints.
