The international French designer, Stephane Rolland, was called the “fashion architect.” His fine designs are considered a school of craftsmanship and creativity, as he has hundreds of artistic masterpieces that he sculpts on a woman’s figure, and which are amazing in their innovative, out-of-the-ordinary details. Although his fame is wide, he is one of the designers who are not attracted to showmanship, but rather his designs speak for them. His pieces have caught the attention of queens, princesses, and international and Arab art stars and stars. His clothes sparkled with Celine Dion, Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, Rita Ora, Ahlam, Yousra, Najwa Karam, Heba Tawji, and the list goes on. In his special interview with Zahrat Al Khaleej, Roland informs us of the details of his legendary show in honor of the centenary of opera singer Maria Callas, as well as his own opinions and creative ideas.
What about the operatic collection, which you showed in July?
This is a very special and special show for me, it is a huge production organized – in the technical aspect only – by more than 400 people, and in total 900. We are trying to reproduce the absolute elegance of Parisian events in the sixties, where women wear the most wonderful evening dresses; To attend opera performances, that’s why we want to make women dream again and again, and also bring more beauty and elegance to this world.
Fashion architect
You have always been able to create women’s dreams.. Why are you called a “fashion architect”?
I always felt like an architect even when I was a child. Maybe it’s genetic. Because my father is an architect, and I have been passionate about architecture since childhood. I love everything that is structural, and I believe that if you don’t have structure in your life, you can’t accomplish anything; That’s why when I look for a dress, I think about its structure, and how can we make it more feminine, delicate, and strong, and give it life? When you analyze architecture, you understand that this is beautiful work. For me, there is a square and a circle, and with both together the balance of the world is achieved. So, it is masculine, feminine, and infinity, and everything is within these squares, cubes, and circles.
You design your pieces with the eye of a photographer, and your dresses are embroidered with precious stones in such a way that the wearer does not need any piece of jewelry. So the idea of the picture seems comprehensive and integrated to you… How does all this happen?
It is important to have a structural engineering foundation; For details of line break; That’s why in embroidery I try to be influenced by fine jewelry. By the way, I’m launching a fine jewelry line next winter, I’m fascinated with gemstones. I do not like embroidery just for the sake of embroidery, because my clients have the most amazing pieces of jewelry, so there is no need to add anything, and I do not like to see a lot of stones and embroidery on dresses, so I prefer a beautiful monochromatic dress with the addition of a necklace that will be a masterpiece.
Your creations invite us to delve deeper into the details of the handcrafts behind them. Tell us about your collaboration with craftsmen!
It is important to work with talent, and I am always ready to meet new generation artists; To see what we can create together. Last season, I collaborated with a wood sculptor, and previously I made glass embroideries with glassblowing artists, and I collaborate with the Italian artist Marta Pantogani, who is a sculptor and embroiderer. When recognizing a talent it is important to push it forward every time, and this time Marta created for the Opera Garnier show an exceptional embroidery in huge three dimensions.
Predicting tomorrow
Do you imagine how the future can inspire you?
No one can predict tomorrow. Who would have imagined that life would stop due to the “Covid-19” pandemic? I believe that life is made of cycles, and this does not mean that tomorrow – because it is tomorrow – will be more modern. Modernity is a way of thinking and living, and perhaps How open are we? The only thing I believe in is being in tune with yourself, accepting yourself, being authentic and a person who has built your life.
Where does the uniqueness of your designs lie?
I may have the delicacy and sensitivity necessary to understand women and make them special, or perhaps some influence, as it is important for the designer to be educated; To be able to understand art, I urge children to study the past, and learn about cinema, opera and music, because you can build the future; When you understand the past.
Which celebrity best reflects your style when wearing an outfit you designed?
A difficult question. I had wonderful experiences with Celine Dion, who wore several dresses designed by me. It is difficult for me to say that this artist expresses the “brand” more than others, as there are many, and each star embodies the dress in a different way, including: Lady Gaga and Rita Ora. But every time Jennifer Lopez wears a dress designed by me, it never disappoints.
After launching the “Pop” bag line, do you intend to expand further into the field of accessories?
We launched the POP bag during the “pandemic,” and it was crazy and difficult. But now things are moving slowly and safely, and this bag has a clean look, with two simple balls, a simple, long-lasting design, and high quality. My current focus is on wedding dresses.
Tell me more about the success of these 10 wedding dresses, and what comes next!
After the success of the first version of wedding dresses, we are currently making the second version. The first batch was a test to see women’s interest in wedding dresses designed by me. We were surprised by the success, and we were happy with it, and we are heading to the next step, the second season, and our production is increasing. I will present the new collection in New York next October, and then we will give a big show in Barcelona to celebrate the second collection. This gives me the energy to venture into this field, and next year I may develop a line for evening wear and ready-to-wear fashion.
Elegance of arts
In the Arab world, you are very popular, and you have good relations with your “brand” friends. What makes this relationship so strong?
I love the Arab world and its culture. As I find myself (50% French and 50% Arab), my heart speaks for me. When I visited the area, for the first time, I was completely taken in, it was like a strong wave, or an earthquake happened to me, and that meant that I always knew that I somehow belonged to that culture.
What do you like most about Arab culture?
I liked the elegance of the arts, and everyone was very welcoming and generous. I also like the fact that time stops when you are in Saudi Arabia; When you cross the desert, time stops. My first visit to the Kingdom was very strange, because when you live a very stressful life in Paris, and you take the plane to Riyadh where you only hear prayer, and at night you see few cars, and few buildings, Riyadh was not what it is now. I said: “Oh My God, what is happening to me? All my anxiety suddenly left my body, and part of me was flying. I was in another world, so perfect for me.
Tell me about the line of caftans, bishts and jalabiyas, which you are known for, and are there any new capsules?
No need to release new capsules; Because I launch a lot of kaftans, and I have many orders, and everyone knows that I love making them. Therefore, there is no need to launch it, as I prefer to focus now on wedding dresses and future evening dresses, but of course I love Arabic caftans and galabiyas.
Are you quite a perfectionist?
Yes, when you are “minimalist,” there is absolutely no room for error. Everything must be perfect, especially in haute couture, and it is difficult to create perfection with what you make with your hands, and sometimes a machine is safer than hands, because there is less processing. The world of haute couture is very precise, especially since my cuts and silhouettes are elegant and simple.
