Mary Katrantzou: “The meeting with Bulgari was written in destiny”

“It’s true, the paths that lead to life’s milestones are already written!”. Mary Katrantzou is freshly appointed as creative director of Bulgari Accessories and her surprise is sincere when we point out a mystery of her life that had escaped her until now: in addition to sharing Greek roots with the Roman brand, founded more than 140 years ago ago by the silversmith Sotirio Voulgaris, the jewels, in the form of those oversized prints that have become his trademark, were the protagonists of his very first step into the world of fashion.
It was 2008 and she, a 25-year-old Athenian student at Central Saint Martins in London, had played her entire collection on the graphic element for the Bachelor of Arts fashion show
precious things. As soon as she remembers this, she explodes into one of the beautiful laughs that punctuate the chat on the phone, while walking on the rooftop of his office in Florence. This is the place where she spends the most time today after Athens, her hometown where since the end of the pandemic she has returned to live, in the beautiful neighborhood of Psychiko, to begin her other great project: a son and a family with husband and partner
in semper Marios Politis.
There seems to be a hint of fate in his appointment.
“Now that she reminds me that everything began with the jewel, I understand that it was written in destiny – she says – looking back, I would never have imagined that my first collection would take me to
to Bulgari. A brand whose aesthetics were central to my training as a designer. Growing up in Greece, I always had a strong connection to certain distinctive elements: the narrative, the craftsmanship
in color, the strong sense of alchemy, symmetry and harmony”.
What were the fundamental steps on this journey?
“I believe there is a karmic relationship also in the way Bulgari and I met in 2019: I presented my first couture collection in the Temple of Poseidon in Cape Sounion, Greece. It was the first time I worked in my country and it was celebrated also the 30th anniversary of Elpida, an association that takes care of children suffering from cancer. Bulgari was launching its high jewelry collection and believed in my show, in the project and in the philanthropic aspect without almost knowing me. There I met Mireia Montoya (managing director of the brand’s Leather Goods and Accessories, ed.) who asked me to collaborate on the Serpenti Through the Eyes Of Mary Katrantzou collection with my reinterpretation of the Serpenti Forever bag”.

Years ago she said she was surprised to discover that her creations were democratic.
“In one of my first truck shows at Bergdorf Goodman: I noticed I could talk to my grandmother,
to the mother and daughter: the best recognition I could have expected. The democratic approach is fundamental for leather goods and accessories, a category where the language must evoke the brand in a more everyday way.”
Which Bulgarian codes are closest to your taste? And which ones he feels he still has to deal with
in symbiosis?
“Serpenti is the boldest sign of Bulgari due to its symbolism, its constant evolution is among the founding elements of leather goods. I love the world of Monete because it authentically refers to the Roman nature of the brand… But there are codes for newer me: I didn’t know Cabochon which reminds me of Brancusi’s sculptures. Or Divas’ Dream in which I find there is something universal and feminine: its shape evokes the Ginkgo Biloba leaf which in distant cultures such as Japanese or Korean means longevity It’s actually inspired by the magnificent mosaics on the floors of Caracalla’s baths. But all the details I find in the Bulgari archives are incredibly modern. In terms of inspiration there is no limit.”
What fundamental things have you learned about accessories in previous collaborations that have led you to become the guardian of style?
“When does a jewel become a bag? And when is a bag considered a jewel? This is the topic my reflections focus on today. Working on the stylistic codes of jewels to translate them into the hardware of a bag influences its entire architecture A process in which I learned a lot because the geometry, proportions, industrial design and craftsmanship that was used to bring the jewel to life are studied in depth. A rewarding job that constantly leads me to push myself outside of my comfort zone”.