PARIS (AP) — In a dazzling world where high art, fashion and celebrities collide, Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for Loewe explores modern masculinity, within the context of our social media-saturated world. The exhibition space, transformed by the vibrant pop art of artist Richard Hawkins, was a visual assault on the senses, paving the way for a collection as rich in narrative as it is aesthetic. Amid the audience, actor Jamie Dornan was spotted gazing amusedly at fleeting images of himself embedded in pulp fiction video collages ranging from paparazzi photos to art history and social media.
LOEWE’S SOCIAL MEDIA COLLAGE
At the heart of this collection in the digital age was the theme of divergence. Anderson has cleverly avoided the idea of a single aesthetic, presenting an all-encompassing, fabulous collage of social media characters, each with a unique style — and seemingly caught off guard, as they might be by the lens of TMZ or Us Weekly.
Be warned: these imaginary characters were not typical celebrities. It was Anderson’s vision, so the disconnect and the unexpected abounded.
A denim collar draped dramatically down to the shin, while a pink top appeared to have accidentally slipped off, revealing an unintentionally bare torso. A belt with a large buckle on one side added an element of spontaneity, as if its VIP wearer had been caught without even having time to fasten it.
Elsewhere, an oversized camel coat was casually draped over bare skin, paired with a sockless blue sneaker, conjuring up the image of a celebrity rushing out to breakfast, unwittingly becoming the subject of a paparazzi’s lens . There were ridiculously long cardigans, leather pants, and tracksuits – running the gamut of modern human existence.
The collection peaked with Hawkins-inspired pieces, particularly the multi-colored pants which married a contemporary twist with a nod to traditional harlequin attire, showcasing Anderson’s talent for merging historical references with a modern design.
This season, Anderson ventured into more provocative territory, grappling with the complexities of the digital age. His latest exhibition shows how the ever-changing dynamics of social media and celebrity are reshaping modern masculinity.
HERMES’ NICHANIAN REIMAGINES HISTORICAL CHIC FOR MODERN MEN
Véronique Nichanian’s latest men’s show for Hermès was a play on history and modernity, reinventing 19th-century elegance with a contemporary twist. The show is a sartorial journey through time, combining luxurious simplicity with a bold foray into historical fashion.
This season’s collars were a nod to the past, evoking the ruffled collars and button-down collars of coats reminiscent of the 19th century. A standout piece was an urban hoodie, designed to resemble a leather panel at the neck, tying in perfectly with the collection’s theme of thick, layered clothing. This layering was not just about warmth, but also about creating a rich, textured narrative – sweaters over shirts, coats layered over coats, all accented with large lapels and dramatic turn-down collars. Tall black platform boots add to the dramatic style, giving each outfit a bold historical touch.
Traditional met modern as Prince of Wales check suits hit the catwalk, delivered with a modern twist – a flash of yellow in a soft knit sweater, for example. This mix of the traditional with bursts of color is a striking trend this season.
Nichanian, artistic director of the men’s universe of Hermès since 1988, has continued to evolve the brand’s aesthetic, moving from the formal styles of the late 80s to a more relaxed and modern approach that values simplicity. and the quality of materials. Her designs blend smart, modern luxury with a playful touch.
VALENTINO’S MEN IN BLACK
Against the gilded backdrop of the Monnaie de Paris, designer Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a vision of Valentino that subtly balances artistic expression and practicality.
The collection opened with a clear nod to classic professionalism: black suits paired with black ties and oversized ’80s jackets, signaling a preparation for the business world. This first presentation of the “Men in Black” aesthetic was both an homage to traditional menswear and an allusion to its evolution. The oversized white jacket added a touch of debonair, suggesting a new, more casual approach to evening wear – and an attempt to please a certain customer.
The utilitarian worker outfits and denim pieces, amid such formality, suggested a blending of different worlds. Piccioli’s strategic flashes of Valentino’s signature vermilion also added a layer of depth. This use of color seemed to symbolize individuality within commercial constraints, which was a welcome touch.
The craftsmanship of the collection was evident but still subtle. A coat with long, heavy lengths was in style, representing Valentino’s heritage of luxury tailoring and its eye toward the future. However, the collection as a whole maintained a more restrained tone, focusing on the salable, wearable and practical.
BALMAIN HAS EYES ON YOU
With the energy of the New Romantics of the 80s, the Balmain show on Saturday evening was a feast for the senses. Eyes and lips were in the spotlight in Olivier Rousteing’s latest fashion show.
Against a backdrop of black, vibrant colors burst in a display that was both a nod to the house’s heritage and a step toward pure, unadulterated fun.
The show opened with a stunning statement piece: a double-breasted coat adorned with giant eyes on its sleeves, black lapels framing the striking visuals. It set the tone for a collection that was as much about making a statement as it was about the clothes themselves. A white shirt paired with a tie adorned with a giant pair of blushed lips continued the theme of bold graphic images.
Polka dots danced on loose coats, punctuated with vibrant colors like purple and bright canary, a nod to Rousteing’s mix of the traditional and the unexpected. The show was a riot of color blocks and vibrant prints, including a full set of costumes featuring a trompe l’oeil print of a man at the water’s edge.
The exhibition also featured models from all different backgrounds, demonstrating Rousteing’s commitment to diversity.
Balmain, under the creative direction of Olivier Rousteing, has become a brand that not only reveres its rich heritage, but also boldly embraces the future. From its early adoption of the swallow motif in the 1950s to Rousteing’s modern interpretation of this heritage, Balmain has pushed the boundaries of fashion. And I had a lot of fun doing it.
2024-01-20 23:43:29
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