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Loewe Takes the Lead: The Rise of a Little-known Luxury House

At the top of the Lyst ranking of the most searched brands of the quarter, sits Loewe. Rihanna, Beyoncé, Zendaya, or even Kylie Jenner have been able to help publicize the surrealist collections of this little-known house of the LVMH group, artistically directed by Jonathan William Anderson.

To find out what the weather is like outside, you can look at the weather forecast, but to measure the hypethe ranking of the e-commerce platform Lyst makes it possible to take the temperature of trends. According to its new report on the second quarter of 2023, the top 3 consists of Loewe (pronounced in Spanish, Louévé), then Prada, followed by Versace. That this Spanish luxury house takes the lead in the rankings may be surprising, given its reputation for being intellectual and confidential, but that’s without counting on its recent pop-cultural shift.

Indeed, the house artistically directed since 2013 by Jonathan William Anderson (also at the head of his own brand JW Anderson) dressed Rihanna for her performance at the Super Bowl in February 2023, but also Beyoncé for her Renaissance tour which began on May 10, 2023. , or even Zendaya for several recent media appearances (including an anthurium dress or another in hammered metal). In addition to its high-profile stage looks, Loewe can also count on the success of certain pieces that have become essential on the networks, in particular the Anagram tank top and the raffia baskets. Loewe’s increasingly surreal collections, both playful and demanding, have also caught the eye of social networks, such as its pixelated clothes, its levitating dresses worn by Emma Watson in particular, its trompe-l’oeil feather clothes or Polly Pocket style.

But by the way, who is it, what is Loewe?

It all started with Heinrich Roessberg Loewe, a German craftsman who set up his furriery workshop (preparation of skins intended to be transformed into fur) in Madrid in 1846, which then became a leather goods shop and gained more and more notoriety. . So much so that King Alfonso XII granted this family business the title of royal supplier of leather goods to the Spanish monarchy in 1905 and it opened other shops across Spain. In the 1970s, it began to offer women’s ready-to-wear (Karl Lagerfeld and Giorgio Armani offered models there) and perfumes and carved out a solid international reputation, supported from 1987 by the group LVMH, which eventually became its owner in 1996, the year of the 150th anniversary of the leather specialist house comparable to Hermès.

Since it no longer belongs to the family of its founder, Loewe has seen the succession at the head of its artistic direction Narciso Rodriguez in 1997, José Enrique Oña Selfa in 2001, Stuart Revers in 2008, and Jonathan William Anderson since 2013 In a decade, the Northern Irish designer has managed to impose the Spanish house on the front of the Western fashion scene, alternating sharp collabs (with the foundation of artist David Wojnarowicz) and other more mainstream ones (with the Ghibli studio), and increasingly highlighting the importance of the craftsman (through the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, an international prize for contemporary craftsmanship). THE love for Loewe is just beginning.

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2023-07-20 15:54:04
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