The daily life of a waterman of the caliber of Kai Lenny is punctuated by the gifts that the ocean offers him. His mentality pushes him to look for new waves that he likes enough for him to put on a wetsuit and go face it. And at the beginning of the month of December, the young daddy has been spoiled.
“In fine weather and only every 5 to 10 years, this big wave is brought back to life.”
The opportunity was therefore inevitable for the heavy swell hunter and he did not come alone. Ian Walsh, Albee Layer or Nathan Florence were caught by the sudden awakening of the spot. Seeing the wave, we quickly understood why. A barrel with such a steep slope had all the qualities required to attract this band of hungry chargers.
Obviously, Kai Lenny had a great time on this outer reef. The recipe for satisfying the waterman was sure to be a winning one: a rare and solid session on his land. So when it’s time to make his Christmas list, the Hawaiian asks only one thing:
“Ride this wave another time this winter.”
>> By Christmas Bordachar
>> Video by Marc Chambers
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