Monday April 17, 2023, Jacquemus unveils its “Objects” line on Instagram. Accessories, books and poolside furniture: it would have been easy to get lost and yet, Jacquemus’s strategy of getting your foot in the door has never been so clear and seductive.
A collection with eclectic typologies.
The collection of seventy-two objects consists of items of very wide size, materials and uses. This generous tote is broken down into three categories.
1.Cure par Jacquemus on the website, consists of twenty-three vintage art books in unique copies and three photographic prints by Lucien Clergue.
2. Jacquemus + Exteta, consists of three pieces of furniture from the “Locus Solus” series designed in 1964 by Gae Aulenti for Zanotta reissued by Exteta in new colors specific to the collaboration with Jacquemus.
3. leather objects consists of fifteen original leather and brass accessories manufactured by the brand. It’s not furniture, there are bags, hair sticks and small leather home accessories.
Three offers, three reading levels.
It is not with twenty-three unique books on a website that the Jacquemus machine is running. Their role can therefore be read elsewhere.
The description of each book on the site states: “This book is a vintage book found by Jacquemus, available in a single copy”. Also, the category title Cure par Jacquemus clearly indicates thepersonal investment of Simon. Like a Lagerfeld who was known to devour pages, to the point of opening his own bookstore, Jacquemus extends his personal branding beyond clothing and lifestyle. This is a strong message about its image. The art books deal with photography, painting and architecture. Without for the moment opening a foundation, it is a first step in culture.
Nor is it with a chair, an armchair and a sun lounger that you can turn the Jacquemus house. Once again, the idea is elsewhere.
Jacquemus is no more a publisher of books than of furniture, so the collaboration with Exteta seems quite convenient. We delegate the production and we harvest the image. Jacquemus chooses sixties industrial design, a niche for ordinary mortals, but not too much. We may know Gae Aulenti a little too much for his fame.if Bat. However, the career of the Italian designer is not just limited to this plastic lamp, and therefore for this reissue: thank you Jacquemus. A lick of paint, a new print for the textile and you’re done.
If the first two types of objects bring something to the brand legitimacy et cultural placement, the third serves as the margin. Leather accessories and three-digit brass hair sticks help the brand keep its cruising speed. Nothing has changed with regard to AD, accessories are, on the site, mixed with seasonal ready-to-wear. The leather plate and the clothes peg hardly swear next to the Bambino wicker and basket Bucket. The entire collection is presented in a gradation of colors, a plastic link that brings consistency between the books, chairs and clothes. Bonus point for the leather tray whose handles take up the loop of the handle of the Little Knot.
Get out of Milan to communicate with Gen Z.
The date of the two Instagram posts is not trivial. The first, Monday April 17, 2023, opening day of the Salone Del Mobile in Milan, which therefore opened the next day, the day of the second post. The Milan Furniture Fair is the most important event for contemporary Western design. Everyone is exhibiting, including fashion brands which are also starting to produce furniture. Launching a line of objects via Instagram without a physical presence in Milan on the day of the opening is an obvious message: “my target is elsewhere, I don’t need your centuries-old and expensive exhibition space, an Instagram video will suffice.“
While the tendency aims to criticize the too easy choice of the reissue, that of the series Only place aim for the mile. It’s design that couldn’t be more industrial (curved steel tube and cotton canvas), from an Italian designer from the great era of Italian design. Jacquemus made the wise choice not to choose a model that was too mainstream. The reissue, if it is financially convenient, is however less indicated in terms of image, because it is synonymous with ease. Thus, furniture publishing houses that are too proud and focused on their archives often get bogged down in a backward-looking image for lack of artistic direction.
This is where the genius Jacquemus operates. If the first post composed of pack-shots in a grid is descriptive as to the content of the collection, the second leaves a little more room for daydreaming. The description of the video “She didn’t manage to choose an object on the grid ! :)” invites us to have fun with the game of tightrope walker in heel crab step to the rhythm of the theme of My uncle of Jacques Tati at the edge of a swimming pool, of course. The light and playful video reflects the image of the brand: proud of its contemporary credentials. The usually clunky reissue betrays a publisher’s lack of renewal. With Jacquemus, he translates a erudition that is shared with the youngest and who above all does not want to stiffen up in an ego-centered furniture show.
Sea, pastel and sun, Jacquemus once again shows us the way to a uninhibited luxurykneaded d’past influences and yet resolutely turned towards youth.
Interpretation and integration, the bet is won.
2023-06-13 23:40:04
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