France Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, fashion historian. “This clothing – he continues – is known to attract attention. The desire to attract attention and hover in space is symbolic “. This symbolism is well captured in Schiaparelli’s outfits at the latest haute couture show, his constructions, exaggerated and sometimes pointed, evoke a protective armor on the body, almost a necessity in these times of feminicide.
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Teresa Mannino on the Ariston stage with a Roberto Cavalli dress designed by Fausto Puglisi
A look that actress Emma Stone also decides to bring to the Bafta stage, where on the evening of February 18th she receives the statuette as best leading actress.“The return of statement sleeves – underlines Colleen Hill, curator of the exhibition Statement Sleeves at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York – must be linked to the time of the lockdown. In the period of confinement due to Covid, smart working and zoom meetings have exalted the upper part of the body, the only one visible in front of a screen, bringing back into vogue a style that had not been seen for some time, but which was central to the history of fashion” as can be seen from the 70 characterful garments, from the 18th century to today, on display at the New York exhibition. Very popular in the 1890s, the enormous puffed sleeves which further highlighted the thin waist, returned in the 1930s when couturiers showed a predilection for intricate sleeves, of which the more the better, but more portable. However to to find accessory sleeves as an essential detail we need to take a step back and go back to Renaissance . The paintings they portray Catherine de Medici or Elizabeth I they show how a part of the dress transformed into a way to express one’s power and prestige , like jewels. “Wearing many meters of fabric meant having a lot of money”, explains Yvane Jacob, who curates on Instagram sapecommejadis which also gives its name to his book Sapé like before (dress like you used to ndr ) edito da Robert Laffont.
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Henry II and Catherine de Medici, anonymous Frenchman from the 16th century. Castle Museum, Anet, France (Photo by Leemage/Corbis via Getty Images)
The sleeves were a real status symbol . In the Renaissance they were separated from the rest of the dress and could be changed depending on the mood or combinations. In Florence, the city of Caterina de’ Medici, the sumptuous laws passed to curb excessive luxury in men’s and women ’s fashion prohibited the use of precious jewels and broderie to embellish clothes with the exception of the sleeves. And that’s why all the possible pomp was concentrated there.
Returning to the twentieth century, it was in the 80s that opulence and excess triumphed again, a hedonistic spirit expressed with oversized shoulders and sleeves (with the infamous padded shoulder pads) in luxurious fabrics, shoulders of women who also figuratively want to occupy more social space, assert themselves and climb the steps of power , even with a certain amount of aggression. Broad shoulders, just like those of the men whose equal they want to be considered. Power dressing finds its culmination in series like Dynasty o dallas or in the film that best captures the style and mood that gives rise to it: Career women .
On the catwalk
XXL sleeves were also the workhorse of the spring-summer fashion shows . The romantic and impalpable ones of Stella McCartney they waved in the fashion show like flags on a north wind day. For Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière he imagined them square or balloon-shaped, reviving nostalgia for the Eighties, while the rounded and sculptural silhouettes of futuristic dresses and suits dominated the super cool fashion show Jacques in Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Or even the exasperatingly artistic sleeves of Watanabe .
Not to mention the brand Simone Rocha which brought romantic balloons in triumph, with flowers, pleats or transparencies similar in Victorian affinities to Bella Baxter. The noteworthy sleeves are the stylistic feature that unites the Irish designer with the Danish one Cecilie Bahnsen . But the podium of the apotheosis of poetic extralarge goes to haute couture, among the phantasmagoric wings of Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli Couture 2024 e Maison Margiela by John Galliano the most admired of the latest high fashion shows.
As celebrities?
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Jennifer Lopez at the Golden Globes with a custom-made creation by Nicole + Felicia Couture, with two distinct “pieces”: a long, body-hugging mermaid and a maxi cape with rose sleeves
Singers and actresses couldn’t miss the latest trend of the moment, particularly suitable for making the entrance on stage spectacular, whether at an awards ceremony, a red carpet or a performance on stage. See Michelle Yeoh, Florence Pugh, Jennifer Lopez in a bouquet of pink roses version at the Golden Globes and Serena Williams at the CFDA Awards 2023 with superqueen sleeves.
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Serena Williams stands out at the 2023 CFDA Awards with a total black look by Thom Browne and superqueen sleeves“/>
Serena Williams stands out at the 2023 CFDA Awards with a total black look by Thom Browne and superqueen sleeves
Even in Sanremo, hyper sleeves made their appearance.Teresa Mannino wore a shirt and trouser suit with wide butterfly sleeves and very light feathers by Roberto Cavalli by Fausto Puglisi and other outfits from the same maison with pharaonic sleeves. On stage the comedian filled the space with large movements that highlighted the eccentric outfit that became a gag: “Jennifer Lopez also has the same dress, only… she goes shopping in it. You can see me going shopping. shopping like this? The butcher plucks me and puts me in the refrigerated section.” But it certainly won’t be a joke that will put a tombstone on the trend of the moment.
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Teresa Mannino on the Ariston stage with a Roberto Cavalli dress designed by Fausto Puglisi
When in Sanremo Loredana Berté sang the verse “I’m crazy about me”, a hymn to newfound love for oneself, she was wearing a rock college girl minidress with big shoulders by Valentino, perfect for expressing the singer’s new strength. Still in Sanremo, Emma he showed off un look total black by Marc Jacobs from the Autumn Winter 2023 collection, with the balloon miniskirt, draped bust with rounded shoulders and visible cups, Annalisa however, even though she stood out for the exposed garter belt on her long uncovered legs and the slits, she performed with squared and well-designed shoulders.
How they are worn
Large, very large, extra large, the exaggerated sleeves do not lend themselves to office life but give a particular allure that stands out. This is why they are suitable for situations where you want to leave your mark, at a dinner, a special occasion or a night at the disco where the generous sleeves express their best when the body and arms move.
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Annalisa at the Sanremo photocall (ansa)
If well orchestrated in proportions they slim the waist and enhance an hourglass silhouette. As for broad shoulders, typical of the Eighties, Annalisa shows the trend well at a Sanremo photocall: oversized boxy jacket over and under a miniskirt, exposed underwear or shorts. But they also work well with loose trousers.