In the parsha of the week it is written “Because the Lord your God is bringing you to a good land, a land of streams of water, springs and deeps that come out of the valley and spring“. When I read the verse in the past, I also imagined the valley of the springs or the Banias reserve. As I grew older and began to see the world, I realized that the clear visual interpretation of this blessing is the Plitvice National Park in Croatia.
The beautiful Pilitvice Lakes are part of the Korana River that descends from the mountains to the Adriatic Sea for 150 km. The special soil conditions in the Pilitvice area caused the river water to pool under one another before continuing to flow.
The structure of the land in this area created 16 large lakes and many more small lakes, where the water flows from lake to lake in amazingly beautiful waterfalls. The largest waterfall is 70 meters high, and is near the entrance. There are also waterfalls only 2-3 meters high. Many waterfalls are next to each other. A charming and unusual look. The waterfalls are at different heights, and near them you can hear the sound of the water falling into the lake at the bottom. The color of the water in the lakes is turquoise and emerald, and they are very clear. The largest lake is the Kozjačka draga lake.
A dense forest grows around the lakes and tributaries. Walking in the shady forest paths, we hear the soft lapping of water in the many tributaries, leaves rustling in the light breeze, and birds chirping. The air is very fresh and expands the lungs and heart. From the paths on the shores of the lakes you can see fish sailing in the clear water. Even in the blazing sun the temperature is cool and pleasant thanks to the shade cast by the forest trees.
There are 8 circular walking tracks in the park to choose from. The routes are relatively narrow, and are on the ground or on the shores of the lakes, and some of them are wooden bridges over charming lakes. If we arrive at the park from the main entrance, we will choose one of the four routes marked in green. If you enter from the secondary entrance, choose one of the 4 paths marked in orange. When we walk along the paths of the park, we better understand the meaning of the verse “a good land, a land of streams of water, springs and abysses”.
The park looks like heaven on earth. This is despite the fact that in the Middle Ages this area was called “Satan’s Gardens”, because there used to be wolves and bears here that preyed on travelers and fishermen. Today, visitors are no longer in danger. But there are rare reports of visitors spotting a bear or wolf emerging from the forest and running away from them.
The entrance ticket also includes a trip in an electric boat on the large lake Kaluderoval, and a ride in a panoramic train. It is recommended to look online at the map of the park, and plan the route and our places of rest and refreshment. The most suitable places for a picnic break and rest are Kozjačka draga and Bistro Kupalište Kozjačka draga on the shore of Lake Kozjačka, or at the entrance to Bistro Kupalište on the other side of the lake.
Behind the cash registers at the entrance is a souvenir shop. I recommend to those who come with children to buy special photo books and the park map for children at this store. The children can learn ecology from them while walking in the park, identify types of water, types of fish, butterflies, otters, identify different trees and so on.
Entrance to the park is limited to 70 visitors per hour, for ecological reasons. You can buy tickets in advance online according to the estimated time of entry, and the remaining tickets are sold at the box office at the entrance to the park. I recommend buying tickets online two weeks in advance, and arriving on time. If we go to the box office at the entrance to buy tickets, the nearest available ticket may only be for another 5 hours, and until then we have to wait a long time in the entrance plaza or in the parking lot. Or there won’t even be any more tickets for that day.
In my opinion, this is the most beautiful place in Croatia, if not in all of Europe. It is not for nothing that it is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park is on the main road between Zagreb and Split. It is highly recommended to dedicate one day to visit the Pilitvice Falls. And those who travel by car from Zagreb towards the Adriatic Sea and Split, must pass through this park.
Kerka National Park Krka
In western Croatia there is another park with “water streams, springs and abysses”. It is the Karka Park that lies on a part of the Karka River that passes through seven naturally formed waterfalls, flowing over limestone and dolomite rocks. The Karaka and Chicola rivers drop seven steps from travertine limestone, forming deep pools before flowing downhill. These waterfalls are also considered the most beautiful calcium carbonate waterfalls in Europe.
A hydroelectric power plant is also operating in Caraca Park, which was opened exactly two days before the scientist Thales opened the world’s first hydroelectric power plant in Niagara Falls. There are also ancient water mills from the beginning of the 19th century in the Karka Park.
The Karka Park routes have 22 stops of nature and history sites worth stopping by. The most famous of the Kraka waterfalls is Skradinski Buk, which is 45 meters high and almost 800 meters wide, making it one of the largest waterfalls in Europe. During my visit to the Karka reserve last Passover, the path leading to the Skardinsky waterfall was closed for renovations. Maybe in the meantime it has reopened.
In the heart of one of the lakes in Karka is the small island of Visovac, on which is the Franciscan monastery built in 1445. It has a collection of interesting archaeological finds. The island can only be reached by small boats.
In Lake Karka you can also sail a boat or kayak in designated places, and even swim under the waterfalls. Find out at the entrance where the bathing and swimming areas are allowed today.
Karka is a natural habitat for almost 1,200 plant species and 200 bird species. Around the waters of the Karka River you can spot many different reptiles and amphibians, and endemic fish that live nowhere else in the world.
Carca Park is about an hour’s drive from Split and Mazdar. 90 km from Split. Many of the religious community spend the holidays in Split with the religious tourism company ‘Asia Travel.’ Also a minus. In the last part of the route, on the way to the bus parking lot, there is a steep ascent with sections of many stairs. In the group I guided on Pesach, I had to physically support several guests, and after I pulled some of them up, I had to go back down again and again to support and pull and push more adults in the group .They arrived at the bus fairly panting.
You can buy entrance tickets to the park at the gate, although it is better to buy it online on the Parks Croatia website to avoid waiting when we arrive.
In the vicinity of Carca Park there are ancient citadels from the Roman period and forts from the Middle Ages. The Roški Slap waterfall complex is also nearby. One of the most important stops on the walking route is the beautiful Ozidana pecina cave. It has been shown to have been used for residences between 5,000 and 1,500 BC. You should also visit the Burnum archaeological site.
So which park is better for us, Kraka or Pilitvice?
- Krka Park is closer to Split and Zadar (90 km), and Pilitvice Park is closer to Zagreb (130 km).
- Pilitvice Park is bigger than Kraka. It has many hiking trails from 3 km to 18 km. In Karka there are fewer trails that are between 3 km and 18 km long.
- Pilitviča is suitable for spending a whole day, and in Park Karka you can be satisfied with half a day.
- The paths in Karka are not suitable for wheelchairs and strollers, because of steps made of logs, soft sand, and uneven surfaces. If you come with toddlers, leave the stroller in the car, and bring them in kangaroo carriers. On the other hand, some of the paths in Pilitvice are also suitable for disabled people in wheelchairs.
- Pilitvice is busier and more popular than Kraka. More than a million visitors every year. Karka Park is less crowded and calmer, but because it is also smaller we can feel crowded there as well.
- In Karka there are areas where it is allowed to enter the water and swim. In Pilitvice it is strictly forbidden in the whole park.
