From its viral compact fanny pack to its high-tech heated vests, Uniqlo is a major player on European high streets. As the Japanese firm celebrates its 40th anniversary, how does science distinguish the brand from other competitors?
On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, frenzied speculation about what will be remembered as the season’s biggest trend reached its peak. But at the Pavillon Vendôme, located in one of the chicest squares in Paris, something quite refreshing was happening.
“Rather than following fashion trends, Uniqlo lifestyle clothing is designed so that everyone can enjoy wearing it every day,” reads a sign printed on a wall. Japanese sensation Uniqlo is celebrating its 40th anniversary with a five-day exhibition dedicated to the science behind its clothes.
Uniqlo CEO and founder Tadashi Yanai, now ranked as Japan’s richest man by Forbes, launched his brand in 1984. Today, he chairs Uniqlo and runs the Fast Retailing Group, which owns Uniqlo as well as other brands, including Comptoir. des Cotonniers and Helmut Lang.
Technology at the heart of clothing
Eager to think outside the box, in 1991 Yanai began collaborating with Toray Industries, a Japanese chemical company specializing in synthetic fibers. At first glance, this may seem like an unlikely partnership: a fashion brand teaming up with a company specializing in carbon fibers. These days, Toray produces everything from Tour de France bike frames to aerospace materials. But it’s this 25-year partnership that is partly behind Uniqlo’s global success.
“We combined Uniqlo’s business planning prowess with Toray’s cutting-edge technology and manufacturing influence,” says Uniqlo CEO Yanai, who traveled to Paris for the opening. “We share information and work together on all processes,” he adds.
Thermal technology: transforming humidity into heat
Pushing the boundaries of science and fashion, this collaboration led Uniqlo to launch its famous Heat Tech collection in 2003. This became one of the revolutionary innovations that caught the attention of buyers and proved lasting success. Thanks to the use of materials that wick moisture away from the human body and transform it into heat, this innovation provides optimal warmth in what remains a lightweight garment.
Heat Tech has been integrated into various clothing lines, notably in the form of an underlay, an element that is not always visible at first glance. Mitsuo Ohya, CEO of Toray Industries, may be wearing a smart suit and polished shoes for his trip to Paris, but assures: “I’m actually wearing a heated top underneath!”
Uniqlo has previously visited this “Art and Science of Lifewear” exhibition as a pop-up in London and New York, calling on shoppers to combine fashion with science. In the same way that many city dwellers are disconnected from where their produce and vegetables are grown, others lack awareness of the materials and threads used to create clothing. So why is a Uniqlo coat waterproof? How does the brand’s famous thermal technology work to absorb perspiration? What is Uniqlo nanosilk – how is it different from real silk?
“Customers are demanding more transparency into how and where their clothes are made. But it also involves understanding the materials, the threads and the innovations behind them,” explains Brogan Skidmore, spokesperson for Uniqlo.
Enter the European market
Uniqlo’s willingness to incorporate innovation into clothing may set it apart from other department stores, but Europe’s high streets remain a fiercely competitive market. A Japanese brand at heart, Yuki Katsuta, the brand’s global head of research and design, remains a key part of the brand’s design process, while overseeing collaborations with designers. Collaborations with Japanese designers but also many renowned French and British designers, from Inès de la Fressange to JW Anderson.
Uniqlo produces around 1.3 billion items of clothing per year and, despite the current global cost of living crisis, its customer base remains loyal: “Shoppers are attracted to Uniqlo because they want to continually find beautiful, quality pieces. We really take into consideration the warmth of the clothes and their lifespan,” explains Claire Waight Keller, Uniqlo’s new creative director, appointed in September.
The power of marketing
Even though Uniqlo built much of its customer base organically, smart campaigns have been a key part of its marketing strategy. One of the masterminds behind it all is John Jay, president of Global Creative for Fast Retailing.
In the 1990s, his clever TV ads for Uniqlo fleeces contributed to the “fleece boom.” It’s the term the company coined in response to its fleeces becoming a sell-out hit in the 1990s in Japan.
Today, the brand works with a team of global ambassadors, including the famous tennis star Roger Federer. In 2018, the Swiss, 20-time Grand Slam champion, left his partnership with Nike to sign a 10-year contract with Uniqlo, worth an estimated $300 million. Five years later, the “Around the World with Roger Federer” project was launched, supporting children around the world through tennis and cultural programs.
With Uniqlo set to open 20 more department stores across Europe this fall, growth on the continent is a huge goal for the company in the coming year. At a time when TV ads have lost some of their influence, particularly among young people, social media also provides an organic way for Uniqlo to reach European shoppers.
Art and science of life clothing, October 1-5, 2024, Pavillon Vendôme Paris
