Editor’s note: Mari Rodríguez Ichaso has been a contributor to Vanidades magazine for several decades. She is a specialist in fashion, travel, gastronomy, art, architecture and entertainment, film producer and style columnist for CNN en Español. The opinions expressed in this column are solely his own. Read more opinion pieces at cnne.com/opinion.
(CNN Spanish) –– Fashion is not only an ornament. It can also be a symbol of many things and undoubtedly helps the image that women who enter the field of politics want to project.
Since the 30s and 40s of the 20th century, in Hollywood films, they wanted to convey the image of a strong and authoritative woman – even a tyrannical and merciless woman! – the female characters wore jacket suits with large shoulder pads and strong cuts. Actress Joan Crawford was an example of that style in “A Woman’s Face.” It also happened years later, in the 1980s, in the popular TV series Dynasty with the enormous shoulder pads of Joan Collins in the role of the very strong and cruel Alexis Carrington.
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Over the years this has not changed and every few seasons the images of the powerful woman in fashion return. And there are styles that make a comeback, such as the large shoulder pads and accessories of ties and business briefcases from the latest collections of Yves Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli and Stella MacCartney, which create absolute images of pure power! Although – let’s face it – they can sometimes seem very exaggerated stereotypes!
And when women participate in politics and public life – whether they are first ladies, presidents, prime ministers and even queens – their style of dress reinforces their image and position. And their stylists know how to exploit and project it. Many of them, especially in this era of social networks and exhaustive information, become new style icons. And images to admire and even imitate.
There are several steps to follow to project empowerment through clothing. One of them is that women must develop their own style. Only then is his image powerful. Changing your look and style continually creates confusion and is not a good idea when you want to project a stable image that inspires confidence.
Looking back at history, Jackie Kennedy was a pioneer in this. Until then, the wardrobe of a first lady of the United States had not received much attention. Jackie conquered everyone with her Oleg Cassini models, her Chanel suits, her Valentino models and the pillbox hats, designed by Halston for Bergdorf Goodman. Even in France, when she visited President De Gaulle with her husband, they were shocked by her image. And in her later years, when she was Jackie Kennedy Onassis and wore the very chic Carolina Herrera, she remained the quintessential image of the powerful and elegant American.
Hillary Clinton established her style as first lady and senator with her pantsuits and inspired the feminist movement Pantsuit Nation, which originated in a Facebook group. And more recently in the United States, pearls (a symbol of feminine power) and Kamala Harris’ classic suits established their language through clothing.
Queen Elizabeth II herself, with her unmistakable look of matching coats and hats, was an image of total respect and authority. Just as the freshness and youth of Princess Diana projected strength with a style that was very much her own and that made her powerful and admired forever.
The sobriety of various policies in Latin America, where every day there are more women in powerful and authoritative situations – among them the new president of Mexico – has been very important. In the past, the unmistakable image of Eva Perón stood out in Argentina.
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Also in Europe, the collections of YSL and Vuitton suits in Brigitte Macron’s wardrobe are images of important and strong women. Just the way she is! And the much imitated wardrobe of Kate, Princess of Wales, attracts her many followers, who deeply admire her.
The cheerful and exuberant image of Queen Máxima of the Netherlands, with her vibrantly colored clothes and eye-catching hats, is undoubtedly a symbol of sartorial empowerment, as she is enormously popular and respected. And it is interesting to note that the image of Queen Letizia of Spain has changed for the better since she stopped wearing a thousand different styles – as Karl Lagerfeld once told me: they are solitary numbers – and now she mostly wears designs that enhance her style. and personality.
And what to say about the present in the US? Well, Melania Trump’s style is not yet very defined, nor therefore empowered. She seeks elegance, but she still does not project her own character or power, but rather that which she receives through her husband. We’ll see what happens.
