New York (AFP) – Fabric in the shape of bubble wrap, balaclavas, puffy jackets to wrap yourself in: the Helmut Lang brand launched the marathon of New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024 on Friday with a collection that ” protects” with very urban touches.
Published on: 02/09/2024 – 11:17 p.m. Modified on: 02/10/2024 – 00:48
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“I feel that living in New York, a lot can happen in a day. And I want to provide a tool that allows you to be ready for whatever may happen,” said explained, just after his show, the American-Vietnamese designer Peter Do.
A popular fashion designer, also at the head of his own line, Peter Do was responsible for reinventing the cool chic and minimalist aesthetic of Helmut Lang which had marked the fashion of the 1990s and 2000s, before its Austrian designer slammed the door. Today, the brand is owned by Japanese giant Fast Retailing, which also owns Uniqlo.
Under the dome of a former large bank, in the trendy Williamsburg district of Brooklyn, Peter Do has revisited some of the inventions of his distant predecessor, such as a fabric in the shape of white, black or orange bubble wrap, made from silk and which can be worn as pants, jacket or bomber jacket.
Oversized wool coats, quilted jackets, collars raised above the neck, hoods, balaclavas, the theme of the collection, “protection and projection” was recalled in each look. Some are inspired by astronaut outfits, while the color palette takes up the bright, almost neon orange of firefighter suits.
A model presents creations from the Helmut Lang brand during New York Fashion Week, February 9, 2024 © Charly TRIBALLEAU / AFP
“I want the streets to be represented,” the designer added.
With a dozen shows per day at least until Wednesday, the American megacity opens the ball for the fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear fashion weeks, before London, then the most popular Milan and Paris.
Witness to the influence that Helmut Lang exercised in the late 1990s, the calendar was changed when he decided to leave Paris for New York, so that the American city came first.
For this season, several heavyweights or renowned designers of American ready-to-wear are expected, such as Tommy Hilfiger on Friday evening, then Michael Kors, Thom Browne, or Tory Burch.
Carolina Herrera and Gabriela Hearst are also on the calendar. Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, a fan of very sensual and gender-neutral fashion, will also make a rare detour to New York with a fashion show on Sunday evening.
© 2024 AFP
2024-02-09 22:17:08
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