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Havid Nagan Unveils the Classic One: A New Era in Independent Watchmaking
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- Havid Nagan Unveils the Classic One: A New Era in Independent Watchmaking
Havid Nagan, a relatively new name in independent watchmaking, is making waves with its latest creation: the Havid Nagan Classic One. Founded by California-based entrepreneur Aren Bazerkanian, Havid Nagan is known for its inaugural HN00 series and the subsequent HN01 Lucine Moon Phase.The Classic One,an elegant dress watch,represents a meaningful shift for the brand. After facing production challenges with the HN01 Lucine project,Havid Nagan has embraced a new manufacturing approach,partnering with industry experts to deliver a timepiece that blends classic design with modern innovation. The Classic One emphasizes quality and craftsmanship through a carefully curated network of specialized suppliers.
The Havid nagan Classic One signals a new phase for the brand, emphasizing collaboration and meticulous craftsmanship. Aren Bazerkanian recognized the need for a strategic shift following production issues with the HN01 Lucine Moon Phase. To realize his vision for the Classic One, Bazerkanian enlisted the expertise of Guillaume Tetu, an industry veteran with experience at TAG Heuer, Hautlence, and Ralph lauren. Tetu, now consulting young brands through his company GLS2F SA, helped Bazerkanian implement an établissage concept. This approach involves contracting local craftsmen specialized in specific component production and assembling the finished product in-house.
The Établissage Approach: A Foundation for quality
The établissage system allows Havid Nagan to focus on design and quality control while leveraging the expertise of specialized partners. Havid Nagan openly states that it is not an integrated manufacture. Instead, the brand relies on well-chosen third parties, each with its own specialty, to bring its watches to life. Key partners include Cadranor for dials, Jean-Rousseau for straps, AMT Manufacture for movements, and GLS2F SA for coordination and final assembly. this collaborative approach ensures that each component meets the highest standards of quality and precision.
Introducing the Havid Nagan Classic One
Beyond the industrial strategy, the Havid Nagan Classic One introduces a fully new watch design. The Classic One, as its name suggests, embodies the essence of a classic dress watch, but with distinctive design twists that set it apart. The overall design reflects Aren Bazerkanian’s appreciation for horological history and design. It draws inspiration from classic Calatrava-styled cases, multilayered dials reminiscent of FP Journe, and neo-vintage elements found in models like the Toric or the Roth-era Breguet. The movement’s decoration subtly echoes the design of movements by Derek Pratt. The result is a coherent blend of diverse influences.
The Havid Nagan Classic One is a classic dress watch with unique design elements. The watch features a 38mm diameter, a 9mm thin profile, and a 47mm length. The round case, composed of 29 parts, marks a departure from the cushion-shaped case of the HN00 series. The most striking element is the sculptural lugs,featuring a concave polished bevel on the side and a pointy tip. The stepped bezel, with both brushed and polished surfaces, adds another layer of detail.
The dial of the Classic One is a dynamic, multilayered creation developed in collaboration with Cadranor. The central area features a finely grained piece of brass with a galvanized coating, a subtle gradient effect, and applied diamond-cut hour markers. The underlying section showcases a clous de Paris tronqué guilloche pattern on another piece of brass. A obvious sapphire disc, extending from the central piece, holds the minutes track. Time is indicated by large, faceted Alpha hands, with a small seconds counter positioned at 6 o’clock.
The Havid Nagan Classic One is available in two distinct versions: ebony and ivory.The ebony version features a black central area, an ivory guilloche-like section, and a silver logo and small seconds hand. The ivory version showcases an off-white, slightly vintage central sector, a varnished ruthenium underlying textured area, and orange accents on the logo and sub-second hand.
Powering the Classic One is a movement sourced from AMT Manufacture, the high-end division of sellita. This is not an off-the-shelf ETA choice. The movement is a modified version of the AMT6600, sharing a base with the Magraph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès.This hand-wound movement, based on the gear train calculation, assortment, and kinetic chain of a Valjoux 7750, undergoes extensive modifications. These include a modified ratchet wheel and crown wheel, a stronger barrel providing a 63-hour power reserve, and a click spring on the ratchet. It operates at 4Hz and is COSC-certified.
havid Nagan sought an original decoration for the movement, drawing inspiration from a remontoir tourbillon pocket watch built by Derek Pratt and Urban Jurgensen. The bridges have been partially skeletonized, finished with minor anglage and a brushed decoration, and then ruthenium-coated. The ratchet wheel and crown wheel feature solarization, screw heads are polished, and the main bridge includes a recessed, grained section with a gold-toned treatment. The mainplate is 5N gold galvanized for contrast and warmth. The result is a charming movement with a clever construction.
availability and Pricing
The Havid Nagan Classic One is available with straps made by Jean-Rousseau Paris, with multiple options available upon request. It can be purchased from the brand’s website. The watch is priced at $9,000, a price that reflects the level of detail in the case, dial, and movement.
Aren Bazerkanian’s vision for Havid Nagan is clear: to create timepieces that honor tradition while embracing innovation. The Classic One is a testament to this vision, showcasing the brand’s commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and design. As Bazerkanian stated, after the manufacturing issue I had with the HN01 Lucine project,
the entire production dynamic had to change. This led to the établissage approach,ensuring greater control and quality in every aspect of the watchmaking process.
The Havid Nagan Classic One is more than just a watch; it’s a statement of intent. It represents a new chapter for Havid Nagan, one built on collaboration, expertise, and a relentless pursuit of excellence.With its classic design,innovative features,and meticulous attention to detail,the Classic One is poised to make a lasting impression on the world of independent watchmaking.
Havid Nagan’s Classic One: A Revolution in Independent Watchmaking?
“The Havid Nagan Classic One isn’t just a watch; it’s a masterclass in collaborative horology, proving that a vertically integrated approach isn’t always the path to perfection.”
World-Today-News.com (WTN): Mr. Dubois, as a leading expert in the independent watchmaking sector, you’ve had the chance to examine the Havid Nagan Classic One. Can you begin by explaining the meaning of this timepiece, especially within the context of the brand’s previous challenges with the HN01 Lucine Moon Phase?
Mr. Dubois: The HN01 Lucine certainly presented Havid Nagan with some meaningful hurdles. the Classic One represents a conscious pivot, a strategic recalibration, if you will. Rather of attempting complete in-house production,which is a massive undertaking for a young brand,bazerkanian has brilliantly embraced the établissage approach—a method where specialized external partners craft individual components,with final assembly and quality control happening at Havid nagan headquarters. This approach mitigates the risks associated with full manufacturing, maintaining a high standard of quality without the notable capital investment. This is key for smaller, independent brands looking to establish a strong reputation.
WTN: The établissage model is gaining traction. Can you elaborate on its advantages
Havid Nagan’s Classic One: A Collaborative Masterpiece Redefining Autonomous Watchmaking?
“The Havid nagan Classic One isn’t just a watch; it’s a testament to the power of strategic partnerships in high-end horology, challenging the traditional notion that vertical integration is the sole path to excellence.”
World-Today-news.com (WTN): Mr.Dubois, as a leading expert in the independent watchmaking sector, you’ve had the prospect to examine the Havid Nagan Classic One. Can you begin by explaining the significance of this timepiece, particularly considering the brand’s previous challenges with the HN01 Lucine Moon Phase?
Mr. Dubois: The HN01 Lucine Moon Phase undoubtedly presented Havid Nagan with significant production hurdles. The Classic One, though, represents a strategic recalibration. Rather of striving for complete in-house manufacturing—a monumental undertaking for a nascent brand—bazerkanian has masterfully embraced the établissage approach. This involves collaborating with specialized external partners to craft individual components, with final assembly and rigorous quality control overseen at Havid Nagan headquarters. This approach skillfully mitigates the inherent risks and significant capital investment associated with full vertical integration.This is a pivotal strategy for smaller, independent watch brands aiming to cultivate a strong reputation.
The Établissage advantage: A New Paradigm in Watchmaking
WTN: the établissage model is indeed gaining momentum in the luxury watch industry. Can you elaborate on its advantages, and how it compares to the traditional vertically integrated approach?
Mr. Dubois: The établissage model offers several key advantages. Firstly, it allows brands to leverage the specialized expertise of established artisans and manufacturers, each excelling in thier specific niche. This results in superior component quality and precision. Unlike vertically integrated brands that must manage every aspect of production, établissage allows for focused attention on design, quality control, and brand identity.It’s a more efficient and cost-effective method for smaller brands, enabling them to bring high-quality timepieces to market without the immense resources required for complete in-house production. This is particularly relevant for the burgeoning independent watchmaking scene which often faces challenges of capital,resources and market entry. for example, Cadranor’s expertise in dial creation is unmatched. Their involvement ensures the Classic One’s dial achieves a level of artistry that would be tough and very expensive for a small brand to achieve independently. Think of it as a symphony of expertise: each partner plays a critical instrument to compose a grand product.
WTN: The Havid Nagan Classic One showcases a compelling blend of classic design elements with innovative features. Can you discuss the design philosophy and aesthetic inspirations behind the watch?
Mr. Dubois: The Classic One’s design is a brilliant study in contrasts and elegant refinement. It intelligently draws upon ancient horological design cues, blending influences from iconic models such as the Patek Philippe Calatrava, the FP Journe collection, and even certain vintage Breguet pieces. The result is a timepiece that feels both timeless and distinctly modern. Its 38mm case size strikes a balance between classic proportions and contemporary wearability. The multi-layered dial, developed in collaboration with Cadranor, is a showcase of intricate craftsmanship, a masterful blend of guilloché and applied markers. Even seemingly minor details like the sculptural lugs and stepped bezel underscore the pursuit of excellence. The watch is an extremely well executed example, showcasing a deep appreciation for design and its rich history. Its design is a powerful indicator of bazerkanian’s intent to create a watch that is not onyl stunning but also pays homage to the tradition of fine watchmaking.
The Movement: A Masterpiece in Miniature
WTN: The Classic One is powered by a modified AMT6600 movement. What makes this movement particularly noteworthy?
Mr. Dubois: The choice of the modified AMT6600 movement from AMT Manufacture showcases Havid Nagan’s commitment to quality without relying on readily available,off-the-shelf components. The modifications, including an enhanced power reserve and distinctive finishing, raise the movement beyond its standard specification. The hand-wound mechanism, while based on a well-known caliber, benefits from elevated finishing and embellishments like solarization, suggesting a move upmarket.
The decoration drawn from Derek Pratt is striking, both technically impressive and aesthetically satisfying. This is a vital aspect of appreciating the overall quality of the product. This underscores Havid Nagan’s dedication to delivering a product that is both technically advanced and visually captivating, elevating the wearer experience.
The Future of Independent Watchmaking
WTN: what are yoru thoughts on the impact and potential success of the Havid Nagan Classic One within the broader landscape of independent watchmaking?
Mr. Dubois: The Havid Nagan Classic One represents an exciting development in independent watchmaking.It demonstrates that by strategically leveraging external expertise and focusing on specific areas of excellence, smaller brands can successfully compete and establish themselves within this highly competitive and sophisticated industry.The classic one successfully combines classic design principles with cutting-edge craftsmanship. Its success will largely depend on the brand’s marketing efforts and brand positioning. The price point is competitive.Given the quality and design, this represents a significant value proposition for the discerning watch buyer. Its success will serve as a case study for other young brands contemplating their manufacturing strategies.
The Havid Nagan classic one has the potential to elevate brand awareness and perception within the independent watchmaking community. It suggests that quality doesn’t necessarily require complete vertical integration; smart collaboration can be equally, if not more, effective. It will be engaging to see its reception in the market and whether it proves to be the trailblazer for future generations of independent watch brands.
We invite you to share your thoughts and insights on the Havid Nagan Classic One in the comments section below.