(ETX Daily Up) – Remnants of the 1990s and 2000s were ubiquitous on the catwalks of New York Fashion Week, as was biker style. But the real star of the Big Apple was none other than nudity for Fall/Winter 2023, with an emphasis on sheerness, lace, low waists, no pants, and nippies. The silhouette suggests itself more than it shows off.
Sobriety ? What sobriety? According to the biggest fashion houses, this one will only be a bad memory next winter. Exit the turtleneck, the balaclava, and other down jackets, make way for more lightness. And that’s an understatement, since nudity was invited to New York Fashion Week. However, it is not a question of showing eccentricity or vulgarity, but of sensuality. This is the key word for this first fashion week, with see-through dresses, lace, a few nippies to hide the privacy of these ladies, and the emergence of ‘no pants’, this trend that intends to remove pants and skirts from our wardrobes. Only the low waist, which continues to rise in fashion, testifies to the desire of designers to add a touch of madness – and nostalgia – to this winter wardrobe.
One piece: the no pants
Born in 2022 under the leadership of Kylie Jenner, the ‘no pants’ trend (understand ‘without pants’) spread like wildfire in the closed circle of influencers, before reaching the prestigious catwalks of Fashion Week. . In New York, many designers have surfed the wave of the absence of stockings – which actually includes pants, skirts, and shorts – to erect tights to the rank of stars of the season. Prabal Gurung, Christian Siriano, Dion Lee, Simkhai, Ulla Johnson, or even Puppets and Puppets are among the big houses that have given up on having their models wear any piece of fabric, at least for certain silhouettes. An inspiration strong enough to suggest that it will indeed last until next winter.
A material: leather and… lace
Omnipresent during the shows dedicated to the spring-summer 2023 season, denim was upstaged by leather during this New York fashion week. It’s hard to miss this inspiration, which is reflected throughout the women’s wardrobe. Jackets, skirts, dresses, coats, pants: leather is everywhere, and is permeated in turn by classic black, warm brown, immaculate white, or brighter colors like red. A trend spotted at Coach, Brandon Maxwell, or Proenza Schouler. But the material of animal origin is not the only one to have imposed itself on the catwalks of New York. Lace also made the show, part of this quest for a new sensuality for fall-winter 2023, as seen at Jason Wu or Alexander Wang.
One color: chocolate
No eccentricity in New York when it comes to colors, with a palette simply guided by the season. Black is unsurprisingly the preferred shade, as are grays and browns. All embellished with a few brighter shades, such as yellow and red. But if one color has stood out on the New York catwalks, it’s chocolate, a gourmet brown that has conquered several big houses, from Brandon Maxwell to Gabriela Hearst via Coach, Collina Strada, and, in a to a lesser extent, Michael Kors, who embellishes it with sequins for a look that’s as chic as it is glamorous.
A print: animals
No – or few – checks, stripes, and other geometric patterns in the Big Apple, but an emphasis on animal prints. Wild, exotic, and sometimes even domestic, animals were perfectly represented on the catwalks, starting with the snake at Dion Lee and Alexander Wang, the leopard at Michael Kors, or the cow at Helmut Lang. If it was not about prints, let’s also note the committed fashion show of the house Collina Strada which made up its models in animals. A real menagerie that has caused a lot of ink to flow on social networks.
The little extra: the nippies
Expression of sensuality, nudity has resulted in a return of nippies – or pasties – on the New York catwalks, with shapes as diverse as they are offbeat. They take on the appearance of roses or fried eggs at Puppets and Puppets, peaches at Melke, and butterflies or glittery lacing at Bronx and Banco. Something to play with nudity throughout the season. Note also the ubiquity of low-waisted pants, with or without visible underwear. A trend that we thought had fallen into oblivion, but which should finally continue throughout the year 2023.
